16 March 2016

Koh Rong, Cambodia

From Sihanoukville, we headed to Koh Rong. One of a few islands off the shore, the slow boat takes about two hours to meander its way across the bay and drop you at what promises to be a pretty hefty party island. But we weren't stopping in the main bay. We hired a flat bottomed fishing boat to take us to our home for the next three days: Sok San Beach Bungalows.


At the top end of a stunning 7 kilometre stretch of white sandy beach (often described as the most beautiful in Cambodia), Sok San is a small cluster of ten wooden bungalows built and run by Australian, Julian. He keeps things gloriously basic with wifi and electricity only running from 6pm in the evenings; a product of the two solar panels soaking up the endless sun. We spent endless hours in and out of the water with beers and coconuts in hand, barely able to believe how clear the water was. (My bungalow's the one in the middle on the left).


At night, we swam in the phosphorescence, the sea lighting up around us as we disturbed the plankton.

One day, we decided to join one of the day trips. We snorkelled over coral reefs, cast lines out in the deeper bit of the bay in an attempt to catch fish, barbecued our spoils on the beach and watched the sunset before heading back to the bungalows. There was time for a final, pitch black jump into the ocean to swim with the phosphorescence again before returning home exhausted but happy.


A few other spots have popped up in this sheltered part of the bay, priced at budgets to suit everyone, so whether you're backpacking with pals or celebrating your honeymoon, you'll find the perfect spot. It's a little bit harder to get to but worth all the effort.
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24 February 2016

Otres Beach, Cambodia

The tan might be starting to fade but the memories definitely aren't. Two weeks in Cambodia was my Christmas present to myself; it had been years in the offing but I finally got the logistics to work and spent the first half of February sunning myself in one of my favourite parts of the world.

After a pretty stressful journey out there (involving a lost Kindle and a lost purse containing my money and all my cards, a frantic call home, money wired halfway across the world and an 12 unexpected hours in Bangkok airport), I finally made it to Phnom Penh a day later than planned. A quick night's stop in the capital city then an early six hour bus to Sihanoukville.

I made a beeline to Otres Beach to meet up with a friend of mine who now calls Cambodia home. This chilled, palmed beach spans miles and is a haven from the bustling town you arrive in. Dumping my stuff at Sunshine Cafe and a bungalow right on the beach, it was time to settle in with an ice cold $1 beer and catch up.


I was lulled to sleep by the sound of the waves and greeted each morning by the Cafe's kittens.  The rest of the day was spent slipping into the quiet, serene and empty sea before settling on a lounger and reading for the rest of the day, fresh coconut to hand. Rinse and repeat, with the occasional $5 hour long massage before heading out for drinks and beach barbecues each night.



My entrepreneurial friends have set up two successful nights since moving to Cambodia five years ago. Saturday night is all about Otres Market (read the Vice article calling it 'Cambodia's most debauched night' about it here) - a creative collective of local stalls and food sellers combined with bands, DJs and flowing drinks in a vibrant part of Otres village.


The other night worth heading to is Kerfuffle on Wednesdays. Set deep in the heart of the jungle in a glade, it's a techno house haven complete with its very own ferris wheel to whisk you into the night. I had one of the best nights of my life dancing until dawn with pals old and new and it has firmly cemented that little spot in Sihanoukville as one of the best places on earth.

Put them both on your list and tell them I sent you.
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