From Sihanoukville, we headed to Koh Rong. One of a few islands off the shore, the slow boat takes about two hours to meander its way across the bay and drop you at what promises to be a pretty hefty party island. But we weren't stopping in the main bay. We hired a flat bottomed fishing boat to take us to our home for the next three days: Sok San Beach Bungalows.
At the top end of a stunning 7 kilometre stretch of white sandy beach (often described as the most beautiful in Cambodia), Sok San is a small cluster of ten wooden bungalows built and run by Australian, Julian. He keeps things gloriously basic with wifi and electricity only running from 6pm in the evenings; a product of the two solar panels soaking up the endless sun. We spent endless hours in and out of the water with beers and coconuts in hand, barely able to believe how clear the water was. (My bungalow's the one in the middle on the left).
At night, we swam in the phosphorescence, the sea lighting up around us as we disturbed the plankton.
One day, we decided to join one of the day trips. We snorkelled over coral reefs, cast lines out in the deeper bit of the bay in an attempt to catch fish, barbecued our spoils on the beach and watched the sunset before heading back to the bungalows. There was time for a final, pitch black jump into the ocean to swim with the phosphorescence again before returning home exhausted but happy.
A few other spots have popped up in this sheltered part of the bay, priced at budgets to suit everyone, so whether you're backpacking with pals or celebrating your honeymoon, you'll find the perfect spot. It's a little bit harder to get to but worth all the effort.