& other places: Opium, Vagabond Wines & Champagne + Fromage

Three bars to whet your appetite.

Opium
This late night drinking den is found (where else?) in Chinatown. Like the Experimental Cocktail Club, Opium is tucked behind a nondescript door, marked only by the bouncer waiting outside. A quick nod and a climb up two or three flights of stairs and we found our place at the bar for post The Book of Mormon drinks, a couple of Wednesdays ago. The drinks menu sounds delicious - the Opium #6 with tequila, ginger, oolong tea for example, or the Golden Lotus with its Remy Martin, rye whisky and banana - but we continued our love affair with Kummel and ordered first a Silver Bullet, and then the much tastier and smoother (and papa-patented) Silver Streak with gin. We couldn't resist the excellent dim sum, so much so that we had to order more to sate our craving for the delicious dumplings. My favourites? The classic pork and prawn, the crab and samphire and the lobster, naturally.

Vagabond Wines
Vagabond Wines are making the art of drinking the grape a more casual affair. No lengthy list to wade through, just a few machines to hover in front of, deciding which to try first. They profess to having over 100 bottles by the glass - just load up your wine card with money, slide it into the slot, press for a sample (25ml) or a glass (125ml) and bottoms up. It's a great way of discovering new wines without committing to a bottle (although you can buy any you like) and with the prices ranging from 'impressively cheap' to 'impressively not so cheap', there's something for everyone. We headed to the Spitalfields one and while I think it's a little smaller than the others, it makes for a cosy post-work stop off. Bucket of wine optional.

Champagne + Fromage
Lovely. A place that does what it says on the tin. A tiny little space across two floors a stone's throw from Covent Garden, Champagne + Fromage is a great place to dip into mid-afternoon for a pick me up. We went for a flight of champagne each - three glasses of different grapes (who doesn't love a selection?) - and shared a cheeseboard - choose three from a range (something old, something new, something fruity and something blue...)  - and would have declared ourselves done, considering we had dinner at St John booked for later that evening. But, of course, we couldn't resist and had stayed for another bottle of bubbly. Sitting downstairs, the atmosphere's a bit lacking but nothing that the fizz couldn't combat.

21 Covent Garden

I thought I'd heard good things about 21, in Covent Garden. I'd heard stories of an impeccable dining experience that put other restaurants to shame. Where I'd heard these rumours from I don't know because that certainly wasn't what we experienced on Saturday.

I'd booked a table believing a warm Saturday lunchtime to be prime for a place with such good reviews, but needn't have bothered. Whilst the Terrace out on the piazza was brimming with diners, we were pointed downstairs to the rather empty and tired-looking restaurant for our table.

That was fit for one, not two. Next to a brick wall. After being unceremoniously moved, we were given the rather concise wine list. With only two roses on the list - one sweet and the other too old a vintage to be worth drinking - we were pushed to the whites and chose a trusty bottle of Pinot Grigio. Which came out warm. Attempts to switch it for a cold bottle were futile but we were given a cooler filled with ice which helped bring down more than one temperature.

Moving on, it was time to browse the menu and we decided to make the most of the sharing plates on offer. And here is where 21 started to redeem itself. We started with the trio of crostini: vine plum, tomato and basil which had the right amount of citrusy/vinegary zing to bring the flavours to life; beetroot cured salmon with horseradish cream and pink peppercorn that was perfectly balanced and hugely moreish; and the goat's cheese and parma ham with fig, the classic combination of sweet, salt and tang which I could happily eat over and over. We also chose the seabass fillet which came served on a mountain of 'bronzed fennel caponata'. Despite it tasting more like ratatouille, the caponata was a strong accompaniment to the brilliantly cooked fish and very reasonable at £6.95 for a portion that most would serve as a main. We rounded off our starters with the fried baby squid with saffron aioli - dainty and thankfully crisp (not chewy), these were lovely and my only complaint is that there wasn't more of them!

For mains, we decided on the antipasto platter, still dreaming of our time in Puglia. Served on a board, there was a selection of salami (crudo, parma, bresaola and milano), cheese (goat's, comte, blue and a soft), bread (flatbread, a stale white baguette and some juicy foccacia) and a handful of grapes that may or may not have had a few missing from a previous nibbler. Nevertheless, we consumed the lot.



So the food itself was mostly great, but the rest of the 21 experience left a lot to be desired. Seated near the kitchen (in the empty restaurant) we did see lots of kitchen hands carrying large sauce tubs past our table, there were only salt and pepper shakers and not grinders (a huge bugbear of mine) on the table, and there was little atmosphere to speak of, which was a shame given we were in the heart of Covent Garden.

The website talks of an 'Italian' experience complete with the terrace in the piazza and another bar in the building but I don't think I'll be going back to experience either. With a glut of great restaurants in London, this one just doesn't make the cut. Two and a half out of five, if I'm being generous.

Earlham Street Clubhouse

Things never stand still in our house. We're coming to the end of two years and in that time, we've seen four break ups, three additional housemates on top of our usual four, two then moving out and two moving in - so while I'm now sitting pretty with three roomies, things just aren't what they used to be.

The good thing about friends moving out (particularly when they move in with boyfriends) is that, whilst diaries can be tricky to align, there's always so much stuff to catch up on. So when Sophie and I finally got round to meeting up for the first time in a month since she moved out, it had to be somewhere good. I was tempted to take her to Burger & Lobster (one of my all-time go-tos because I am going through a massive lobster stage at the moment) but decided to branch out and give somewhere new a try.

The Earlham Street Clubhouse has been on my list for a while now. Pizza, cocktails and a jukebox controlled by an app just sounded perfect for a mid-week catchup and seeing as it's just down the road from my office, an easy choice. Just off Seven Dials and next door to other contender Flesh & Buns, this is one place that's managed to avoid the hordes of crowds so far but popular enough to give that all-important atmosphere. Speaking of which, it's, like, totally channelling the 90s American vibe.

We grabbed a table and spent a significant amount of time poring over the drinks menus (which hang on bungee cords from the ceilings). With names like 'Heather's Revenge' and 'Sweet Valley High', it's clear that these guys are taking their theme seriously. It turns out that Tuesdays are Clueless Tuesdays so their 'Rolling With The Homies' cocktail was 2-for-1 - perfect. Ketel One vodka, peach and strawberry puree, lemon, sugar and sparkling wine, these delights came served in pint tankards and definitely did the trick.

When it comes to the pizza, there are seven to choose from and they come as either 12 inchers (£10) or 20 inchers (£18). Spoilt for choice, we did the 'Ross & Rachel' and had half-and-half of the American Beauty and Vincent Vega. Served on a gigantic pizza board, this badboy was divine. Sliced into triangles the size of your head, you eat off the paper plates and marvel at how you've quite managed to consume the whole thing. Garlic chilli oil is on every table if you need it, but I would like to have seen some dips for the crusts. Speaking of the crusts - expertly thin and crispy, thanks to their woodfired pizza oven visible in the open kitchen.

(This is a photo of the 12' size - we were too greedy to snap our big boy before we ate it.)

We had another couple of rounds of drinks - at around £7 a pop and essentially half price, it'd be rude not to. We also tried the Stifler's Mom which divided opinions - Sophie hated the absinthe in it but loved the gin, whilst I could have drank it over and over.

Service was a little slow, but sweet when it came. The music - which you can oversee if you're so inclined - was bang on with Riot Jazz versions of Snoop Dogg songs and Prince, with old school Mission Impossible being shown (on silent) on screens dotted around the place.

There's definitely a diner-feel here and a great throwback to the teen movies we grew up with, watching valley girls share pizza with the jocks, and somewhere I'll definitely be heading back to. What do I give it? A firm four out of five, for sure.

& other places: The Big Easy, Psychic Burger, Soho House

The Big Easy
Veteran Chelsea crabshack, The Big Easy, opened up its second venue in Covent Garden this week. Channelling All-American steakhouses, this place is built for volume. The alcoholic slushies are to die for (go for the two-in-one Miami Vice if you're feeling flush) and the bottled-to-the-brim bar is friendly and attentive. The staff here are smiley and knowledgeable but we didn't get our drinks til after our mains arrived which was a little disappointing. There's a lot to offer - from steak to ribs, shrimp to lobster - but the night we went, they didn't have everything available - not so good for an opening night. We went for the Lobster Festival (£20 for a whole lobster, chunky chips, salad and a slushie) which was very reasonably priced but smaller (and drier) than its Burger & Lobster counterpart. The mac & cheese had a decent crumb but stick some proper cheese in there, please! Good for a tourist-land stop but I don't think I'll be going back.

Psychic Burger
The newest resident at Dalston's Birthdays, Psychic Burger has got the burger thing going on. Spoilt for choice, we gave the eponymous offering (beef, Psychic sauce, pickles, American cheese on a brioche bun) and the Lamb Franko (toasted almond & spiced lamb patty, smoked pomegranate yoghurt, aji, coriander on a brioche bun) a go. We'd toyed with the horse burger (yes, really) but our morals got the best of us so stacked up with croquettes and stilton chipotle dip, and chilli cheese fries for that all American dream. A little bit messy but totally moreish, we devoured everything, as well as several of the Bagheeras (Vanilla Stoli, ginger, Gomme, basil, lemon and ginger ale). We didn't stay for the afterparty but we'll definitely be back. 

Soho House
Tucked off Greek Street and sitting pretty over Soho, Soho House is a members-only with a difference. No stuffiness here (the Shoreditch contingent has a rooftop swimming pool), everything's quite casual as you wind your way up the stairs and settle in the devilishly comfortable leather sofas. We were here for drinks more than anything else - the Grey Goose Fizz was my total favourite - but couldn't help ordering some of the small plates to share. Spicy chicken wings? Not bad. Padron peppers? Gone in a flash. Chipolatas with honey and mustard? Yes please. And the smoked cod roe with toasts? Keep it coming! After our meeting was over, we wandered upstairs to the top floor where the conservatory gives out onto a little roof terrace where, just for a second, you both forget and remember that you don't actually live here. A girl can dream though, right?

Sticks'n'Sushi

Something wicked this way comes... But not until April when the final Ts will have been crossed and the Is dotted. So in the meantime, fellow writer (big clue there) Ella and I decided to grab dinner at one of the hottest spots in town, Sticks'n'Sushi.

Tucked just off the main Covent Garden piazza, this is the second UK offering from the Danish founders and definitely not their last. It's not just the pleasingly sibilant name that has cast its spell over London, these guys mean real sushi business.

Our first impressions were great: a sleek, sexy black frontage conceals the culinary equivalent of Narnia - an up and down delight of sweeping tables, exposed brickwork and achingly moody lighting. Greeted at the door by two very smiley waitresses, we were whisked through to our (booked!) table and presented with four (yes, four) menus each. For two of the most indecisive girls on the planet, this could have been a total nightmare (and it was for a bit as there's so much choice to work through) but we were captivated by some of the most beautiful food photography we've seen. 

A friendly waitress guided us through the options and finally we opted for the Table for 2 from the set menu: salmon, shrimp, salmon New York and tuna nigiri; black Alaska, sparkling tuna, mamma mia and dreamy California uramaki; Gypsy big futomaki; chicken breast with chilli, chicken tsukune and wrapped asparagus yakitori (the sticks in the name) and edamame beans, with a 'side' of marinated duck breast in rice paper with avocado, coriander, lettuce and goma dressing from the a la carte menu. The sushi came out first and we dove right in to the fresh fish, dipping into the soy that was attentively topped up by the waitresses, before being presented with the sticks which we'd totally forgotten about at the time but I can't stop thinking about now. This food has seriously upped the ante for all sushi places everywhere. 

Washed down with a bottle of Kirin Ichiban (a Japanese lager) each, we tore ourselves away from the hugely tempting desserts with a chocolate Old Fashioned. And agreed that Sticks'n'Sushi had shot straight to the top of our list and was worth a return visit as soon as we could make it back. So here's to next time - skal.

& other places: The Royal Oak, Wahaca, Lamb & Flag

The Royal Oak

This is one of my favourite local pubs. On colourful Columbia Road, The Royal Oak is almost a traditional boozer with dark wood walls and a three-sided bar that practically guarantees you'll get served at some point. If you go on a quiet night. I first came here at 19, on a date, and was blown away by the food served in the dining room upstairs. Since, I've made infrequent forays but it's still a firm favourite as it exudes warmth, a little bit of hipster pretention and enough old school charm to find you making excuses for return visits. 

Wahaca

Wahaca's one of those perennial favourites that everybody and their cat is into these days. Set up by Masterchef winner, Thomasina Miers, Wahaca brings Mexican street food to the English high street in the form of tacos, tostadas and tequila. Departing from a habitual Wagamama, my mum and I popped in to the one near my work this weekend, started with a virgin mojito and guacamole and chips, then shared the black bean and cheese quesadilla, a cactus and courgette burrito (my first) and the shrimp and scallop ceviche tostada (my favourite). The flavours didn't jump out at me as much as I was expecting, but portion sizes are good (and inexpensive) and the drinks are tasty. Just enough to keep you going until dinner.

Lamb & Flag

The Lamb & Flag is a traditional boozer if ever there was. Tucked between Garrick Street and Long Acre, this was once Charles Dicken's haunt of choice. A bit spit and sawdust, it's a good place to stop for an after-work drink (or after-Dishoom drink) and mill around outside in the cobbled courtyard. Its olde worlde feel harks back to its 1772 origins and it's a pub that's been drinking in London's history for centuries and coating everyone who steps inside with a little bit of it. Worth a stop if you're in the area.

Dishoom

You shouldn't necessarily look forward to someone leaving work, but when their leaving meal's booked for Dishoom, it's hard not to. At half five on the dot, we packed up, shut up shop and headed over to the legendary bombay cafe in Covent Garden.

It's a place I've heard a lot about and have been eager to try ever since I managed to get us a table. Based on Irani cafes where businessmen sit alongside barrow boys, Dishoom tries to capture the atmosphere that is so often lacking in eastern establishments. Even at six o'clock, the places was buzzing - tables were groaning under the weight of plates, waiters were flitting around and is that a Bollywood version of a Madonna song in the background? The interior is all tiled floors, rich golds and blacks, glass everywhere - I felt as if I'd been transported into a movie set with all the attention to detail. From the art-deco lighting to the trinkets in the bathrooms and the many family photographs splashed all over the walls, Dishoom was inordinately welcoming.

We were given a booth downstairs and jumped straight into drinks. I went for a chaijito ('smoky rum and Dishoom sweet-spice chai syrup muddled with fresh mint, cordiander, ginger and lime') before trying out the Bombay Colada - and promptly finding my new favourite drink. A twist on the classic colada, Dishoom add chai syrup and lime juice to cut through any heavy cream, and mix in coriander and cardamom seeds giving the most deliciously aromatic taste.

We then started with small plates. Flavoursome lamb samosas, calamari, chilli cheese toast (naughty) and bhel (puffed rice, nylon sev and bombay mix with fresh pomegranate, tomato, onion, lime and tamarind) slipped down far too quickly. No standing on ceremony; all about sharing and passing round the table. 

For mains, we shared again ordering the chicken berry britannia biryani, spicy lamb chops, lamb boti kebab, charred masala prawns, raita, house black daal, chicken ruby (their take on a curry) and lots of rice, naans and roomali roti. The flavours were so intense and aromatic, there was a totally different kind of thing going on compared to the typical Friday night takeaway. We devoured everything, mopping up the last bits of sauce with the flat roti and cooling down with the healthy-ish raita. 

And just when we thought we were totally full, we ordered desserts...to share. We went for the Guju chocolate mousse, which comes rich, salted and with fruited yoghurt, and the Memsahib's Mess - another aromatic take on a class - Eton Mess. Empty bowls pushed aside, we finally decided to leave - sated - and come back again very soon.

Service was relatively quick, but very knowledgeable. As we left, people in the queue outside were given steaming cups of coffee and milk to keep them warm - a nice touch. The whole place has a nice touch and gets a four out of five.

Mishkin's

The original Mishkin's was established way back in 1931. Its current format is a little younger, having been regenerated as part of the Polpo family in 2011. The premise is the same and it's described as 'a kind-of Jewish deli with cocktails' that serves up the 'Jewish comfort food we all love eating'. It was my first foray into Jewish food (late night Brick Lane beigels don't count) and it didn't disappoint.

As it was a work thing and we were keeping it casual, we decided to order several plates and share. We opted for the reuben on toasted rye (pastrami, sauerkraut, Swiss and Russian dressing), the Brick Lane salt beef sandiwch with Colman's and pickles, the salt beef and Colman's triple cheese macaroni, lamb and minted yoghurt sliders (we went for the smaller to share, as the large just doubles the patty), beetroot and feta slider with cumin salsa, and sides of half and half (chips and onion rings) and the summer radish slaw. A veritable feast with everything a mix of crunchy pickle and gloriously salted beef flavours - we just kept coming back for more.

The atmosphere was laid back, the staff friendly and attentive and the food quick to arrive. We didn't try any of the daily or seasonal specials but if you're nipping in for something sweet, go for the baked cheesecake of the day - ours was maple and pecan and to die for. We had a booth but sit at the New York deli-style bar and revel in the classic brickwork and chrome combination.

For a brilliant introduction to Jewish-style food, Mishkin's gets a moreish four out of five.

& other places

This week I've dropped into a few other places that have been nice to discover.

Bishopsgate Kitchen
Tucked around the corner from Liverpool Street, this kitchen-come-canteen is a cosy place for after-work drinks. Fronted by glass, filled with chunky wooden tables, tops and benches, there's a continental feel to the place, something that is echoed in the collection of artfully mismatched crockery, wall adornments and rustic blackboards. I had a sauvignon blanc - perfectly fruity and cold - but rather pricey at £6 for a small (as in 125ml small) glass. I didn't eat but the menu is full of seasonal ingredients, sharing platters, and larger dishes with an European vibe that looked very tempting. A little overpriced perhaps but that comes with the Liverpool Street/City/Spitalfields territory.

The Luxe
Another East Central brasserie, The Luxe is right in the heart of Spitalfields. Big open ceilings and large windows on three sides complement the chunky bar and industrial feel that's seemingly so popular these days. A quick Google reveals this to be a John Torode place in conjunction with the Smiths of Smithfields team, with the intention to be a place that people would love 'to eat, drink and play in...and buy some flowers' (it used to be a flower market in a former life). It was fairly buzzy (but not too busy) when we stepped in with a DJ playing some disco-inspired tracks (on trend indeed) at a volume that was a little higher than necessary (less on trend). Our bar girl struggled to hear our order, find our order, complete our order and then explain sufficiently why one of our identical glasses of wine had less in it than the other. Apparently there's a daily happy hour (not clear anywhere in the place) and food is served in various guises over the various floors, depending on what you're after (and a live music downstairs). On reflection, it looks quite a promising place but I wasn't quite convinced when I was there - maybe a return visit will swing my mind.

The Porterhouse
Described as the largest bar in London, The Porterhouse is split over twelve different levels in the heart of Covent Garden. Ranging from booths to benches, this place fills up fast. A relaxed atmosphere definitely helps and an impressive list of available beers (this is a brewhouse after all) is backed up with the offer of some cocktails and wine for those preferring grape over grain. Quick service, decent prices and a friendly crowd, Porterhouse is obviously doing something right as it manages to feel intimately busy despite its size. I'm not sure if I'd make it a regular but this is a great place to take a friend who wants a proper pint or three.