23 May 2015

Chick 'n Sours

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I'll put it out here right now, I'd never eaten fried chicken before Chick 'n Sours. I actively avoid KFC (I'm awfully snobby, I know) I never did the Dixie Chicken thing at university and if I'm honest, I don't like chicken on the bone. Setting myself up for a right failure from the get-go, surely?

So I was dubious when I headed over to this new opening in Dalston. But I'll be the first to admit, I was pleasantly surprised - this is no ordinary chicken shack. Forget the formica and dodgy uniforms, this is a snazzy place that pumps 90s music out and serves up their eponymous sours in half pint jugs with handles. Speaking of the sours, the House Sour's pretty damn good. Gin with raspberry and chilli vinegar for that sweet and sour kick topped with vermouth had me from the off whilst the Negroni Sour sounds right up my street.

We ordered some sticky disco wings to share (they also come hot and naked) and the Szechuan aubergine which was the surprise hit of the night. Lightly battered chunks of aubergine were in a heavy soy sauce with plenty of coriander and spring onion for added bite.

At this point (a Saturday night), they'd run out of thigh and bone chicken, were dangerously low on the Guest Fry and the buns for the Korean burger had proven too popular. Not to be deterred, we went ahead and ordered what we could and it turns out that all's well that ends well, anyway.

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I went for the (boneless for one night only) Guest Fry. Compared to the anaemic batter I see in Bargain Bucket ads, this breaded breast was crispy and flavoursome, encasing the moist meat inside. Chili jam, crispy shallots, basil, mint and spring onion added extra dimensions to make it one seriously happy bowl.

We shared fries (of course) dunked in St Agur & buttermilk dip as well the house pickles which turned out to be pickled watermelon rind. Almost apple-like in flavour, we fought over these to the bitter end and I liked how they made the most of the fruit. The flesh also comes pickled with peanuts and coriander for a refreshing, zingy accompaniment to the fried chicken.

The only real disappointments of the evening were the bunless burgers which had been replaced by low-carb lettuce leaves so lost a bit of their charm, and we weren't totally convinced by the Weetabix soft-serve but you win some, you lose some, right?

So, all in all a great way to break me in to fried chicken. I won't be hitting up the old uni haunts of Mile End any time soon but I'm sure I'll be back to Chick 'n Sours for a fistful of their temporary tattoos too. Four out of five.
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31 October 2014

Le Bun at The Three Compasses

Burgers burgers, everywhere. London's love affair with all things Americana shows no sign of slowing down any time soon and it seems that every corner you turn, you'll find a rib shack, burger bar or BBQ rustling up buns of varying degrees of success. The Burger Awakening only struck me a year or so ago so I'm a little slow on the uptake of the various outlets but the only one on my list worth writing home about (and revisiting) is MeatMission. Until now.

Le Bun is stealing the show. Fresh from winning Sky and Samsung's Launching People and a two month residency at the Old Bengal Bar, Le Bun have taken over Dalston Pub The Three Compasses to offer fast food French-style. Last night was their launch party, and with the promise of great food, 50% off and killer tunes, it was suitably rammed.



















With no time to lose, we did what four sensible people do when offered six options - order one of each and dive right in. I kicked off with the Le Bourguignon Bun (I was swayed by the promise of bacon salt, champagne slaw and truffle mayo) and practically inhaled it, it was so good. The slow-cooked meat was deliciously melt in the mouth with a great depth of flavour from the glaze; crunchy cabbage slaw added that bit of tang and the saltiness from the bacon and truffle rounded everything off. The rest of the team didn't even get a look in.

Le Duck Frites Bun was equally as sumptuous with crispy straw fries packed straight into the bun, whilst Le Chevre managed to serve up a whole wedge of oozing goats cheese, topped with that biting crunchy slaw for good measure. Le Royale With Cheese sold out pretty sharpish and passed the boys' meat test (ie. plenty of it) and this time, I was the one who missed out.



We didn't stop there. After catching up with the brains behind Le Bun (Tim Talbot and Andy Taylor) we just couldn't resist even more food. So out came three sliders and Le French Onion Dog - the first three were 'down in one' affairs (see the boys about to get stuck in) and the dog we shared, all grinning beatifically. Also, who fries parsley? It's genius!

These guys have got the burger thing down, I'm a total convert. They're sticking with The Three Compasses for a while and are also running Taco Tuesdays (self explanatory, right?), Steak Frites nights on Wednesdays complete with Red Wine Roulette and a toasty winter garden to wrap up in. Whilst you're out there, try one of the crazily moreish winter warmers from Kamm & Sons - I fell in love with the Hot Roots so have one for me.

Le Bun, I salute you. Cinq out of cinq. Bravo.
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8 October 2014

Mussel Men

My ever-blossoming love affair with lobster continues. I don't know really know where it's come from; my first memory of a live lobster was a family holiday to Antigua where I'd sat with my back to the tank and was completely freaked out by it's long antenna reaching out of the glass to settle on my head. A few days later, at OJ's Beach Shack down the coast I got my own back and had one grilled to perfection.

Since then, I hadn't really eaten lobster - it's not the most cost-effective way of getting your fish fix, after all - until Burger & Lobster opened and wild horses can't keep me away. It's embarrassing how often I find myself in there, lobster cracker and fork in hand, but this week I cheated on them and tried somewhere new for a change. Kingsland Road's Mussel Men.

Another restaurant, another great pun. Starting life as a seafood pop up, it's found a forever home in Dalston, tucked down from the Kingsland station and a stone's throw away from chains such as The Diner and my nemesis, Nando's. The all-in approach to decor (fishing nets, obligatory driftwood and a huge painted seascape) is actually a nice touch without being over the top and whether it's a coincidence that the really friendly front of house staff were all in Breton stripes, I'm not sure, but cute nonetheless.

Mussel Men's menu is short and sweet and ever-changing. You'll find the obligatory mussels (mariniere and a weekly special offering) of course, as well as fillets and steaks from the grill, scallops and oysters. But we'd come for the Lobster Tuesday special - half a lobster, chunky chips and a beer for £20. Not quite as good as Burger & Lobster's offering but they have size on their side, and Mussel Men's normal half costs £18 so there's a lot to be said.

Served on a (hot) slate, the lobster is steamed then topped with a hollandaise sauce that's lightly grilled. Smaller than I was expecting (huge fiend) but expertly cooked, the meat was tender and juicy and hugely moreish. I was completely cack-handed with the claw cracker and fork but the meat I did manage to salvage (and suck from the legs) I mopped up with the rest of the hollandaise and mayo on the side. Chips were huge and floury and the beer? We had a pint of the Samwells IPA - more lagery than ale and very fruity. For an extra £1, you can choose wine but there's something satisfying about devouring a lobster with a hardy pint of something hoppy.

By the time we left, the restaurant was full - a nice sign for a Tuesday night - with corks popping, mussels steaming and oysters being slurped by the dozen. Mussel Men is a great welcome addition to an area that's still coming to terms with its newfound popularity. Do their lobsters beat my firm favourite? Afraid not but I'll definitely be back.
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20 March 2014

& other places: The Big Easy, Psychic Burger, Soho House

The Big Easy
Veteran Chelsea crabshack, The Big Easy, opened up its second venue in Covent Garden this week. Channelling All-American steakhouses, this place is built for volume. The alcoholic slushies are to die for (go for the two-in-one Miami Vice if you're feeling flush) and the bottled-to-the-brim bar is friendly and attentive. The staff here are smiley and knowledgeable but we didn't get our drinks til after our mains arrived which was a little disappointing. There's a lot to offer - from steak to ribs, shrimp to lobster - but the night we went, they didn't have everything available - not so good for an opening night. We went for the Lobster Festival (£20 for a whole lobster, chunky chips, salad and a slushie) which was very reasonably priced but smaller (and drier) than its Burger & Lobster counterpart. The mac & cheese had a decent crumb but stick some proper cheese in there, please! Good for a tourist-land stop but I don't think I'll be going back.

Psychic Burger
The newest resident at Dalston's Birthdays, Psychic Burger has got the burger thing going on. Spoilt for choice, we gave the eponymous offering (beef, Psychic sauce, pickles, American cheese on a brioche bun) and the Lamb Franko (toasted almond & spiced lamb patty, smoked pomegranate yoghurt, aji, coriander on a brioche bun) a go. We'd toyed with the horse burger (yes, really) but our morals got the best of us so stacked up with croquettes and stilton chipotle dip, and chilli cheese fries for that all American dream. A little bit messy but totally moreish, we devoured everything, as well as several of the Bagheeras (Vanilla Stoli, ginger, Gomme, basil, lemon and ginger ale). We didn't stay for the afterparty but we'll definitely be back. 

Soho House
Tucked off Greek Street and sitting pretty over Soho, Soho House is a members-only with a difference. No stuffiness here (the Shoreditch contingent has a rooftop swimming pool), everything's quite casual as you wind your way up the stairs and settle in the devilishly comfortable leather sofas. We were here for drinks more than anything else - the Grey Goose Fizz was my total favourite - but couldn't help ordering some of the small plates to share. Spicy chicken wings? Not bad. Padron peppers? Gone in a flash. Chipolatas with honey and mustard? Yes please. And the smoked cod roe with toasts? Keep it coming! After our meeting was over, we wandered upstairs to the top floor where the conservatory gives out onto a little roof terrace where, just for a second, you both forget and remember that you don't actually live here. A girl can dream though, right?
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17 January 2014

Ruby's (Don't grow up, it's a trap)


Ruby's is a drinking den like no other. Tucked away down some rickety stairs beneath an ever-changing old school cinema sign (the night I went it read 'Don't grow up, it's a trap), it's like going back in time. Peeling wallpaper, mismatched wooden furniture, classic cardboard coasters, you feel like you've stumbled into someone's living room or their opium den. And that's the point.

The barmen here are probably the friendliest I've met in London. With the inexplicable inability to guess my perfume and a promise of great drinks, these guys really make you feel at home. We started with a Blackberry Mojito - rum, chambord and mint, all muddled with fresh blackberries and served in milk bottles. Now I'm a big mojito fiend and raspberry ones usually get my vote but this one with the tangier fruit completely won me over. I'm sold.

I's French so we got talking about Paris and the absinthe soaked streets of Montmartre. Feeling a little bit naughty for a weekday, we asked the barmen if they could knock us something up with a little of the Green Fairy for good measure. So along came the Corpse Reviver. Absinthe, gin, Lillet Blanc, Cointreau and lemon juice combine to make one frosted little freak of a drink. Naturally, we loved it and were conjuring up images of tilting with Toulouse-Lautrec and friends in a world inspired by Moulin Rouge!

Ruby's is a perfect little place for a cocktail or three whatever night of the week. I'm just gutted I haven't been sooner. And the fact that the music they play is so on point it hurts (anywhere that plays Prince is a winner in my books) makes this place pretty damn special. What's even better is that they've just taken over my local The Cat And Mutton on Broadway Market so I'm super excited about a five minute walk to get my freaky fix. This cool cat gets a five out of five from me.
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22 April 2013

Saturday Sun

Day
As the sun shone and the temperature climbed, we cut through ever-busy Broadway Market (which is on our doorstep), ambled/cycled/skated down the canal path and spent the day in Victoria Park. Lunch was sausage rolls as big as your fist from infamous The Ginger Pig and generous fish and chips from the Fish House (the specials looked super tasty and affordable) in Victoria Park Village. A pocket of bars, restaurants and shops, the Village is a little E9 haven - if you're ever in the area, grab a bottle from Bottle Apostle and take it across the road to The Empress, where my friend's the chef-de-partie and the food is divine.



Night
The boys decided to head to Vogue Fabrics in Dalston and after a lot of deliberation, a minor breakdown about my appearance, some predrinks and a 'photoshoot', we headed out. I departed from my usual look of messy hair and nude lips to a radical (for me) hair up and berry pout style...accompanying my whiter-than-white complexion. We went to 'Pop', a predictably saccharine night, which was all very much fun and games...until my phone was stolen. Cue a rather instantaneous reduction in nightly enjoyment, a walk home (no buses or taxis), calls to the police (and later insurance and O2).


 
Cliched (and horrendous) as it may be, I've been without my phone for about 36 hours and I'm starting to feel a little lost. It's a rather shameful admission that most of my 'life' is on it, and how much I rely on it - from checking my Instagram to checking my calendar, for example. My boss has lent me his old iPhone (the office spare) and so I'm not going to be incommunicado for too much longer, but I do have to wait over a week for my replacement - not a happy bunny. 

But can I really be sad when I have a four day week and next weekend is being spent in Newquay at Pleasure Principle? I think not.
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18 April 2013

You Could Move

Last night I went to see 'You Could Move' at the Arcola Tent in Dalston. It was a housemate's-boyfriend's-friend-is-the-writer affair and other than a vague suggestion that the play was based on LGB (lesbian, gay and bi) experiences, I didn't know what to expect.

We bought drinks at the bar in the main theatre - just across the road from last night's venue - where two other productions, Gibraltar and Moby Dick, were on stage. Then we settled ourselves on the seating that spanned two sides of the Tent (so-called because of the dark red drape above us) before the production began.

It was an immersive experience in the sense that the cast changed everything up frequently - from the props (lit panels, a table here and there, some chairs and sometimes bedlinen) and their characters, to the nature of the performance and how they interacted with the audience. Well-observed dialogues were intersected with spoken lyrics (think Robyn and Kylie) and monologues taken from experiences of all walks of LGB life. I went with my housemates (a collection of gay guys and a straight girl) and it was interesting to see how much we all related (from our own perspectives) to the content of the production when we emerged, blinking, an hour and a half or so later. It was insightful, entertaining, amusing and interesting all in the one, and it was so good to get a dose of such great culture (and pour the last of my wine right at the quietest part of the production - oops!)

Funded by The National Lottery, You Could Move is the latest production from Outbox, 'a company of all gay performers, focusing on the forgotten and unheard stories of the LGB community. You Could Move mixes up verbatim with physical storytelling, evocative soundscape, glamour, grit and gay abandon to portray contemporary scenes of LGB.' Showing at the Arcola Theatre until 20 April, then Contact in Manchester on the 27 April, tickets are £10 and well-worth every penny.
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