Sunday on the South Bank

Sunday was one of the best days I've had in a long while. The morning was spent lazing in the garden, soaking up the best weather of the year so far, before heading out mid-afternoon to brave the South Bank.

We headed to the Aquarium - one of those touristy things us Londoners just don't do, and judging by the queues, for good reason. But us Brits are made for standing in line fairly politely and it wasn't long until we were in, marvelling at and anthropomorphising all the species (so many fish holding hands and jellyfish questioning their existential lives).

We emerged into the still baking hot early evening in search of food. Heading along the South Bank, past the various pop ups (from a Wahaca bar to The National Theatre's Propstore) and buskers, we happily ended up at Brindisa, on the edge of Borough Market. A tapas bar opposite one of my favourite pubs (The Southwark Tavern), Brindisa was bustling with diners inside and out. We had a short wait so grabbed a bottle of wine at the bar and browsed the menu, before being taken to out our sunny table and given complimentary iberico ham. We opted for a few dishes (naturally) including: esclavida (toast with salted sardines, roasted aubergine, red pepper, onion and tomatoes), gambas al ajillo (chilli garlic prawns), deep fried monte enebro (handmade goats cheese with orange blossom honey and crispy beetroot) and the pan fried seabass (with mashed potatoes, garlic and pepper refrito). Brilliant food coupled with brilliant service, it's easy to see how Brindisa has grown from one location to four plus a shop in the market and an online store.

From there, we headed back along with the river and nipped in to the Oxo Tower Bar for a mojito. Not the cheapest of venues but the incredible view from the balcony bar on the eighth floor is perfect for watching the sun set. And then, we found ourselves snaking through the BFI to The Drawing Room... 'Tucked behind an inconspicuous bookcase, you'll find a secret entrance to the recently opened cocktail bar. Not quite Narnia, you won't find fur coats or fictitious fawns, but it could be a room taken straight from the country manor that famous wardrobe was found in. The bar is filled with handpicked and just as precious curiosities and curios.'

We drank red wine and blueberry caiprinhas and played Trivial Pursuit to varying degrees of success. Cosy, comfy and tucked away in the back of one of London's most brilliant venues, The Drawing Room was a great place to discover. We tried to stop off for one at Gordon's on the way home but they'd just closed (Sunday after all, Bank Holiday or no) so called it a night - a very successful, exploratory night. 

Le Volume de Chanel

I always have at least one book on the go - I'll read before I go to bed, before I get up in the morning, on the train/tube to work, on the tube/train home from work - you name it, it'll be tucked into my bag. Last week, though, it ceremoniously got left behind so to fill the void, I picked up the go-to Stylist and flipped through onto the Chanel mascara giveaway. The first 30,000 people to respond would be sent a sample of the new Le Volume de Chanel*, so I gave it a shot and found it sitting on the doormat early Saturday morning.

Predictably, the packaging is top-notch simplicity, sleek and monochrome. A generous sample size, the wand is on the larger end of the scale, described as a 'snowflake' brush with alternate longer and shorter bristles. Application is quick, easy and rewarding - giving me length I'd forgotten I had, with a dark colour pay-off. I applied two coats just to be sure and was pleased with the result - for someone who's been wearing false eyelashes everyday for the past six months, this was a pleasant surprise.

There's no fragrance which I was slightly disappointed with (I love YSL's Effet Faux Cils Shocking and Lancome's Hypnose mascaras for their fragrance) and the staying power is average - doesn't rub off too easily but it's a lot easier to remove than Benefit's They're Real! (another long standing favourite).

Having not forayed much into the Chanel make up range, I was pleased that the mascara lives up to the brand's hype. Of course, Chanel's high-end reputation means prices are higher than your average drugstore brand - but of course, for those saving the pennies, there's Chanel-owned Bourjois - mid-range products at drugstore prices.

& other places

This week I've dropped into a few other places that have been nice to discover.

Bishopsgate Kitchen
Tucked around the corner from Liverpool Street, this kitchen-come-canteen is a cosy place for after-work drinks. Fronted by glass, filled with chunky wooden tables, tops and benches, there's a continental feel to the place, something that is echoed in the collection of artfully mismatched crockery, wall adornments and rustic blackboards. I had a sauvignon blanc - perfectly fruity and cold - but rather pricey at £6 for a small (as in 125ml small) glass. I didn't eat but the menu is full of seasonal ingredients, sharing platters, and larger dishes with an European vibe that looked very tempting. A little overpriced perhaps but that comes with the Liverpool Street/City/Spitalfields territory.

The Luxe
Another East Central brasserie, The Luxe is right in the heart of Spitalfields. Big open ceilings and large windows on three sides complement the chunky bar and industrial feel that's seemingly so popular these days. A quick Google reveals this to be a John Torode place in conjunction with the Smiths of Smithfields team, with the intention to be a place that people would love 'to eat, drink and play in...and buy some flowers' (it used to be a flower market in a former life). It was fairly buzzy (but not too busy) when we stepped in with a DJ playing some disco-inspired tracks (on trend indeed) at a volume that was a little higher than necessary (less on trend). Our bar girl struggled to hear our order, find our order, complete our order and then explain sufficiently why one of our identical glasses of wine had less in it than the other. Apparently there's a daily happy hour (not clear anywhere in the place) and food is served in various guises over the various floors, depending on what you're after (and a live music downstairs). On reflection, it looks quite a promising place but I wasn't quite convinced when I was there - maybe a return visit will swing my mind.

The Porterhouse
Described as the largest bar in London, The Porterhouse is split over twelve different levels in the heart of Covent Garden. Ranging from booths to benches, this place fills up fast. A relaxed atmosphere definitely helps and an impressive list of available beers (this is a brewhouse after all) is backed up with the offer of some cocktails and wine for those preferring grape over grain. Quick service, decent prices and a friendly crowd, Porterhouse is obviously doing something right as it manages to feel intimately busy despite its size. I'm not sure if I'd make it a regular but this is a great place to take a friend who wants a proper pint or three.

Imagery #4

Pho's pho ga (chicken noodle soup) is so often my lunchtime saviour. Served in different pots and pieces, you assemble it yourself, adding as much (or as little) of the fresh ingredients as you'd like. I throw everything in, strip the fresh herbs from their stems, squeeze the lime, accidentally put too much chilli in and take as long as I need to eat it all.

Firezza; our go-to pizza place since our previous favourite stopped delivering to us. You can get standard 12" round pizzas or 1/4 and 1/2 metre measures topped with some of the tastiest toppings going. Almost always a deal available and the banoffee pie is heavenly.

Tiago made a Red Velvet cake.

Whenever I spend a weekend at home, it's fairly likely that, on Sundays, you'll find me in front of the world's biggest cheese and meat board. 

On Saturday,  my mum and I visited one of the places where she grew up and stopped to pay our respects to some relatives in the churchyard. After I got a little emotional, we stepped inside to see where she was confirmed and where the classic Christmas services were held.

We then went on to eat at The Olde Bell, a great coaching inn in Hurley (my review here), before heading to a 60th birthday for one of my mum's friends. Having known each other since the age of 14 and getting up to all sorts of ridiculous behaviour (recounted with a mix of embarrassment, incredulity and pride), it was great to finally meet one of my mum's oldest friends. And then meet others she hadn't seen for 40 years. There were pictures of the birthday girl all around the area, but I just had to snap this polaroid of my mum!

The Color Run

Yesterday, I signed up for this year's Color Run. Originally an American idea, it's a five kilometre (three miles to us Brits) race that is less about the time across the finish line and more about the time you spend doing it. Participants (60% of which are first-time runners, like me!) wear white and, at every kilometre mark, are doused from head to toe in different colours. Once over the finish line, there's a mini-party 'Color Festival' and it doesn't matter how long it takes you to reach it, or even how you reach it, because it's all about the experience.

Now, being someone who doesn't run for the bus, hasn't stepped foot in a gym for years and manages a few days of the 30 Day Shred before getting distracted, it's a bit of an unexpected step. Sure, 5 kilometres isn't a big deal (I have a couple of friends who regularly run marathons) but I figured that this would be a perfect way to ease myself into somewhat of a strenuous activity (for me, anyway) alongside some of my pals.

The London Color Run is happening on 14 July, near Wembley. There's one the following week in Manchester and they're hoping to add more locations and dates this summer. It's £25 entry, with support going to Stand Up For Cancer and Cancer Research UK, and you get to be that person covered head to toe in colours grinning all the way home.

The Olde Bell

The Olde Bell is an old coaching inn dating from 1135, tucked away in the small Berkshire village of Hurley. The main building's gorgeously timber-framed with nooks, crannies and winding staircases, whilst there's other more slightly modern areas that encompass most of the bedrooms as well as the capacity to host weddings for up to 150 people (of which one was taking place when we arrived on Saturday afternoon).

We came for lunch, between visiting family roots in Shiplake and going to a 60th birthday party in Marlow (more on that later), and were very glad we did. The wedding party's old Routemaster in the car park lent even more of a quintessential feel to the day (villages around Henley are particularly picturesque) and the low ceilings and tiled floors of the Bell's interior were a real comfort.

There's a few different areas to explore - the main bar, a bar dining area, private rooms and the main restaurant that gives onto a pretty patio and garden. We were given a 'booth' to ourselves (below) and felt right at home in the dining room, with its mismatched railway sleeper tables and grey-green painted chairs. We were given some warm homemade bread whilst we pored over the daily-changing menu and somehow managed to choose from the amazing dishes on offer.

We started with asparagus (deliciously raw and peppery), quail's egg and garlic mayonnaise, and a ballantine of Scottish salmon with dill and minted creme fraiche. Enticingly served on slates and pristine white crockery, we fell in love with the flavours. For mains, my mum had tender pork belly on a bed of lentils with cider jus whilst I had herb-crusted lamb with garlic mash. We shared a generous portion of seasonal greens and dove straight in. My lamb was served brilliantly pink and the garlic mash was perfect (and quite like a fondant potato) - the only chagrin was my poor decision to choose lamb when I'm not its biggest fan. The dish was delicious but I'm not quite converted. Mum's pork belly was divine. As a treat, we just had to share a dessert - a gorgeously smooth and rich creme brulee with the lightest homemade shortbread we've ever tasted. 

The price for food is very good given the presentation and the quality. The staff were attentive and friendly, but not intrusive, and let us explore the inn. The meadow-like garden looked a perfect place for long lunches in the summer and we saw quite a few people snacking in the bar - there's no pressure wherever you choose to sit.

The rooms (there are 50 of them) look gorgeous, given the shots on the website. Affordable too with some very special offers that throw in champagne, chocolates and roll-top baths. The Olde Bell is perfect for a jaunt out of the city - a stone's throw from all the fun at Henley, or even just for a country escape - and somewhere I'd definitely come back to. 

A firm four-and-a-half out of five (a half point deducted for my hasty choice of a main that didn't quite manage to convert me).

Behind closed doors

Thursday has been the new Friday for a long time. Sore heads and lighter wallets accompany feeling-sorry-for-yourself statuses and tweets, but the draw of a drink (or many) to welcome in the weekend is too hard to resist. Last night I went on a jaunt and discovered some brilliant places behind some impressively unassuming doors.

After a couple of post-work beers at local haunt The Yard, I headed to the Experimental Cocktail Club in Chinatown. Sandwiched between two restaurants and hidden behind a very nondescript blink-and-you'll-miss-it door, the ECC is a haven away from the busy streets of Soho. The immediate staircase takes you straight up to the first floor where exposed brickwork and deep red walls give the bar a prohibition-era vibe; mirrors on the ceiling and a great half-moon window keeps the place from feeling a little too dark. The inspired cocktails were a welcome change from the standard menu - I had an Old Cuban, rum-based with citrus and ginger, and a Sage Advice, a twist on a mojito, topped with fresh sage. Definitely a place to return to.

From there, we went to Blacks on Dean Street; a place I walk past every morning on the way to work, and a place that gives nothing away. Opposite The Groucho Club, 'Blacks looks nothing more from the outside than an unassuming Georgian townhouse, yet behind its unmarked black door a heritage-packed, eclectically-attired bolthole awaits those in the know. You enter at basement level by descending a rickety steel staircase from the street into somewhere resembling a Dickensian tavern, all long oak benches and exposed beams with a deep fireplace, Farrow & Ball tinted-walls and enigmatic oil paintings.' We ate in one of the laybrinthine dining rooms - a sharer board of breads and olives before a pollock fillet with Romanesco sauce, grilled spring onions and sauteed potatoes - before finishing our drinks upstairs, lounging on one of the charmingly mismatched sofas in front of a roaring open fire. It felt deliciously cosy, and with the brilliantly lovely staff, it was a real treat.

After that, we went to The Box. Only in its first year, it's infamous - many celebrities are pictured tumbling out of its massive oak doors, and the cabaret shows are legendary (so I hear). A friend of a friend was DJing so we skipped the queue and headed straight upstairs, momentarily stopping off in the old theatre before dancing the night away in the loft. Despite two attempts, we didn't manage to catch any of the downstairs entertainment but the music made up for it. Plush and dark, The Box oozes hedonism, so it's easy to see why it's fast becoming a firm favourite - a little bit naughty, a little bit nice and right in the heart of shabby, sexy Soho.

Putting On The Ritz

Saturday afternoon, I was invited to a private screening of Pedro Almodovar's new feature I'm So Excited! It had garnered a mixed collection of reviews and so I wasn't quite sure what to expect. Almodovar is best known for his films such as The Skin I Live In, Volver, and Tie Me Up! Tie Me Down! and so an out-and-out comedy set on a doomed aeroplane seemed a little off-kilter.

The screening was at the BAFTA headquarters in Piccadilly and we made it just in time to slip into the second to back row, just in case we wanted to make a quick (and early) exit. And make a quick and early exit we did. We stuck it out for about an hour, giving it the benefit of the doubt, and whilst it started off quite funny in places, it seemed to disintegrate into farce and become a little clunky. Despite an amusing, very camp rendition of The Pointer Sister's I'm So Excited (giving the film its title), brief appearances from Antonio Banderas and Penelope Cruz, and some silly characters (namely the pilots and cabin crew), it just felt too Airplane. 

We left and ended up going for a conciliatory drink at The Ritz and a spin at blackjack. I'd never played before (apart from some predrinking attempts at 21) and tried to get my head into it by watching another player at the table. Once I'd plucked up the courage, I put in £10 - and ended up with two 21s (one with an Ace!) and making £15. I stopped there as beginner's luck never needs to turn into complacency, and I'm pretty pleased to be able to say I came away from The Ritz up.

The glitzy gilt drinking rooms of The Ritz Club were a little unexpected, but it was clear why it's a stalwart of London heritage. Some interesting frescos, brilliantly puffy sofas and armchairs and predictably attentive service herald the best in British hospitality. It's no surprise that tourists and locals alike flock here and I'm pleased that I've joined the ever-swelling ranks of visitors.

Sunday links #10

1 Thirsty...everyday?

The girls over at A Beautiful Mess pulled together their recent recipes for cocktails and combined them in one thirst-quenching post. I'm a big fan of cocktails and think I'll be giving some of these a try.

2 Hungerover owls
500 owls who've been on the sauce. Whimsical and great. I just love the one above - in a hole with ridiculous eyebrows.

3 Pictures of people who mock me
This brilliant article from a photographer who captures others' reactions towards her appearance. Honest and satirical, it's an eye-opener. An extract: 'In my peripheral vision, I saw a teen girl waiting for the signal to cross the street. As I stood there, eating my ice cream, I hear a repetitive SLAP SLAP SLAP of a hand on skin. I signaled to my assistant to shoot. It was only when I returned home to Memphis and got the film developed that I realized the sound was the girl hitting her belly as she watched me eat. She did this over and over. I have five frames of her with various facial expressions.'

& other places: The Old Thameside Inn, The Cat and Mutton, John Salt

It's been a busy week - out every night in the company of alcohol has left me exhausted today. I'm unashamedly very much looking forward to a 'quiet night in' with the housemates this evening, undoubtedly with a takeaway, some trashy TV and catch ups. This week I've been to a couple of other places...

The Old Thameside Inn

The Old Thameside is the pub you pass whenever you walk along the river from Waterloo to Tower Bridge (and I've done this walk many a time). Sitting next to Francis Drake's Golden Hinde, it's a haven for tourists and is normally crammed during summer. We took advantage of the late afternoon sun and sat outside on the river with glasses of Pimm's (I just can't help myself). Despite its history (it used to be an old spice warehouse and sits on infamous Clink Street), it's a little soulless - most likely as it's part of a pub chain. A bit of a boozer, it's popular with tourists but I'd love to see it in independent hands and really embracing its charm.

The Cat and Mutton

The Cat and Mutton is one of my locals, sitting pretty at the top of infamous Broadway Market. It's a much-loved venue with big windows on two sides, exposed brickwork on the others, an impossibly high bar, mismatched tables and chairs, a spiral staircase and an open kitchen. In the summer/at weekends/most days, The Cat heaves with drinkers spilling onto the pavement outside or into the Fields. Food looked tempting but I was only here for a drink - or four - choosing the French Merlot (Pavillon Trois Arches, apparently) and polishing off three large glasses. At £7, it's a little pricey but worth it. The staff put on a mix of motown and Frank Ocean (what a dream) and were dancing around, we stayed till after 11 and the fact it's on our doorstep means that it's definitely a pub to venture to. 

John Salt

Oh yes, a place worth visiting twice in one week. This time we stayed longer, sampling four of the cocktails on the menu and then five different beers (ouch). The barmen (as before) were upbeat and helpful, willing to tweak cocktails to taste (although they didn't need to, as they were great). People came and went around us, the restaurant area was busy and bustling and a group with the cutest pug puppy sat next to us (always going to be a winner in my eyes). We didn't eat but I still can't stop thinking about that mackerel, fennel, lime and mint dish - next time, I'm indulging. 

The Engineer

Named for Isambard Kingdom Brunel, The Engineer sits just off the canal in Primrose Hill, on the cusp of Camden. An impressive and welcoming building, it had been a recommendation of a friend of a friend, and without it, I doubt I'd ever have stumbled across it.



Despite the bustling crowds of Camden, The Engineer was a bit of a haven with just the right level of buzz without leaving you feeling as if you've been caught in a whirlwind. We ordered our first drink at the bar: mine was a Summer Cup, a twist on the archetypal Pimm's, brought to you by Sipsmith - an independent spirit brewery who produce some amazing vodkas and gins. I spied some 'Engineered' specials that sounded tasty and refreshing and definitely worth a return visit to sample.

We'd booked a table for lunch and were shown through to the garden - too lovely a day to sit inside although I caught glimpses of deep maroon walls, big mirrors and voluminous banquettes. There are also private dining rooms upstairs - perfect for all sorts of occasions - but the vined terrace, tucked away off the street was an ideal Bank Holiday Monday location.

It was busy with young families (Primrose Hill, after all), couples and friends with tables groaning under large plates of roasts on the bone and dishes piled high with vegetables. We soaked up the sun as people came and went, the breeze blowing fresh blossom across the patio, and were left to our own devices to chat.

The menu was a Bank Holiday affair with some great sounding starters, fresh bread (although they'd run out by the time we were seen to), big roasts and tempting mains. The towering rib, chuck and bone barrow burger sounded (and looked) good but, again, was too popular, so we went for the fish and chips, battered with beer from Camden Town Brewery, served with great homemade tartare sauce and minted crushed peas. It was very good.

It was a lazy afternoon so we were in no rush but we did have to wave rather emphatically to get the attention of the busy staff for both a second drinks order and our food. Everyone was very friendly and you get the impression you're part of the family.

Comfortable and confident, The Engineer is doing something right. Despite the slightly-longer-than-liked wait for garden service, the moreish Summer Cup and the old-classic-done-well fish and chips made up for it, so a good four out of five.

John Salt

There's been a lot of talk about the John Salt in Islington. Opened a few months ago, it saw great success - until its head chef walked out. In stepped Neil Rankin from Jamie Oliver's Barbecoa and Pitt Cue Co and the success has continued.

Describing themselves as 'a neighbourhood bar', it certainly felt like one when we stepped in last night. Friends, dates and dogs (outside) took up every table in sight in the stripped industrial bar. Concrete floors, wooden tables and a towering back bar shelf crammed with bottles gives the John Salt an interesting vibe and I was instantly drawn to the drinks menu (we didn't eat on this occasion although I definitely want to next time).

First round, I had a large glass of rosé - one of two on the menu - which was perfectly crisp and dry. I'd been tempted by their impressive range of beers - both on tap and bottled, which included some from local breweries in  London Fields and Camden to some further afield locations such as Boston and Maui. 

As I'm a sucker for a cocktail, I just had to sample one of the ten or so on offer. Their Beer Glass Mary (a take on a Bloody Mary) came served with crackers and cheese but I ended up opting for the Hey Oh! with its more summery strawberry vibes. A twist on the mojito, strawberry purée, Chambord and pepper were all in the mix and shaken and served in a jar. Nice touch.

As mentioned above, we didn't eat but the menu sounded appealing with starters such as raw beef, pear and sesame going for £6 and tempura oysters with beef fat mayo for £7. The main course mackerel, barbecued with fennel, lime and mint sounds a steal at £10 and I've no idea what the 'banana dog' dessert is but I know I want to try it.

My cocktail came unexpectedly buy-one-get-one-free, and I happily indulged. Although it wasn't in use, there's also an old hot dogs and candy floss stand that's been converted into DJ decks for those fancying some light relief. Attentive bar staff, good vibe and a potentially great dining experience, John Salt gets a four out of five.