5 August 2016

Date night at Duck & Waffle

Every night is date night, right? Not always. Although P and I do spend an inordinate amount of time (and money) eating out (I've actually lost count of the places I wanted to write up and then just ran out of time on). We just can't help ourselves at the moment.

We're planning to curb our enthusiasm a little when we move in together in just over two weeks (eek!). I am already dreaming of all the amazing meals we're going to cook up in our kitchen (with the cutest open shelving) and avoid the temptation to order in every night. But there's one place that I will never have a problem about going back to time and time again and it's the perfect date night destination - Duck & Waffle.

Doubtless you've seen all the selfies and sunsets on Instagram. With it being 40 floors above the city and open 24 hours all year round, the views are astounding and the gastronomic possibilities are endless.


We started yesterday's evening with a Woodland Negroni and a Daily Grind. Nestled in a moss-lined wooden bowl with a heady fragrance of ferns and meadows, this smoother than smooth campari was a dream. Cocktail genius Rich makes it with 'damp gin', campari and sweet vermouth and slow drips it through all sorts of flora as part of this season's 'Urban Foraged' collection. P, whose drink choices always tend to come in the most feminine of glasses, wasn't quite as keen on his cocktail which came topped with crushed coffee dregs (but that's only because mine was better).


No biggie though as D&W never disappoints. Just look at the guanciale and Welsh goat's cheese bread. Cured pork cheek is layered onto the dough and baked to order and oozing with tangy saltiness. Cutting into the still hot from the oven loaf, we always have to fight over who gets the last tear.


Particularly useful for finishing the last of the foie gras creme brulee. This small pot contains one of the most delectable dishes, worth hankering over with its smooth, meatiness. The cracked shards of sugar cut through the silkiness to add crunch and the heavy brioche with its pork crackling top serves as the perfect vessel from table to mouth.

We also had the seared octopus with raw fennel and chilli. I was too busy eating to take a photo but it was sharp and fresh with citrus and salad, complementing the meatiness of the cephalopod which had the lightest of smokes and crisps.


Next up was the pea and mint ravioli with brown butter crumble. I'm still trying to work out quite how they got this bowl of pasta quite so light and fresh tasting; no carb comas here but sweetness from the fresh peas and an undertone of buttery richness. Predictably, this was swept up and devoured.

We finished the last of our beautiful bottle of Ribeauville Gewurztraminer wine along with a British cheese plate. No time to waste, putting this new found love of Alsacien wine into practice.

So, another delicious date night. Normally I'd be aching to get another booking in the diary to do it all over again. This time? I don't have to wait - next week, we're showing off to clients and introducing them to a world of pig's ears, smoked eel and that duck and waffle dish.
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28 April 2016

& other places: Opium, Vagabond Wines & Champagne + Fromage

Three bars to whet your appetite.

Opium
This late night drinking den is found (where else?) in Chinatown. Like the Experimental Cocktail Club, Opium is tucked behind a nondescript door, marked only by the bouncer waiting outside. A quick nod and a climb up two or three flights of stairs and we found our place at the bar for post The Book of Mormon drinks, a couple of Wednesdays ago. The drinks menu sounds delicious - the Opium #6 with tequila, ginger, oolong tea for example, or the Golden Lotus with its Remy Martin, rye whisky and banana - but we continued our love affair with Kummel and ordered first a Silver Bullet, and then the much tastier and smoother (and papa-patented) Silver Streak with gin. We couldn't resist the excellent dim sum, so much so that we had to order more to sate our craving for the delicious dumplings. My favourites? The classic pork and prawn, the crab and samphire and the lobster, naturally.

Vagabond Wines
Vagabond Wines are making the art of drinking the grape a more casual affair. No lengthy list to wade through, just a few machines to hover in front of, deciding which to try first. They profess to having over 100 bottles by the glass - just load up your wine card with money, slide it into the slot, press for a sample (25ml) or a glass (125ml) and bottoms up. It's a great way of discovering new wines without committing to a bottle (although you can buy any you like) and with the prices ranging from 'impressively cheap' to 'impressively not so cheap', there's something for everyone. We headed to the Spitalfields one and while I think it's a little smaller than the others, it makes for a cosy post-work stop off. Bucket of wine optional.

Champagne + Fromage
Lovely. A place that does what it says on the tin. A tiny little space across two floors a stone's throw from Covent Garden, Champagne + Fromage is a great place to dip into mid-afternoon for a pick me up. We went for a flight of champagne each - three glasses of different grapes (who doesn't love a selection?) - and shared a cheeseboard - choose three from a range (something old, something new, something fruity and something blue...)  - and would have declared ourselves done, considering we had dinner at St John booked for later that evening. But, of course, we couldn't resist and had stayed for another bottle of bubbly. Sitting downstairs, the atmosphere's a bit lacking but nothing that the fizz couldn't combat.
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25 April 2016

Maltby Street Market

You've exhausted Borough Market, right? And you fancy somewhere other than Broadway Market, yes? Time to get on down to Maltby Street Market.

A short walk from Tower Bridge, Maltby Street Market's set into the railway arches and bursting to the seams with the newest street food on the scene. We headed down a Sunday or so ago, chasing the sun as it attempted to break through the April clouds. It's a little shady down the Ropewalk at times but the warmth of the stalls and the bustle of people will keep you from getting too cold.

First off, make sure you take a stroll along the entire length of the market before making up your mind on what to try first. There's everything from scotch eggs and sausage rolls, Greek pittas and Indian wraps and even raclette on offer and you'll be hard pressed to make a decision.


We kicked off with grilled cheese sandwiches from the guys at The Cheese Truck. The three-strong team were the image of efficiency as the orders came thick and fast - supply somehow always kept up with demand, and boy were these boys in demand. We went for the goats cheese with honey, walnuts and rosemary butter - a sweet and savoury melt-in-the-mouth sensation with the rich flavours tripping over each other brilliantly in the mouth and squidging deliciously out between the toast - and the Cropwell Bishop stilton with bacon and pear chutney. This one was salty with a real bite from the blue, added meatiness from the pig and a little sugar to round it all off. The Metro called them the 'best street food truck ever'. An accolade I could get on board with.

We ate our grilled cheese perched on empty barrels between old planks and railway sleepers stacked high at Maltby & Greek, a tiny little shop who find the best food and drink from Greece. We didn't sample any of their cured meats but the glass of red wine was, naturally, delicious.


From there, we couldn't resist the call of the king crab mac & cheese toasted brioche sandwich from DoYouCrab. Piled high with pasta, sprinkled with parmesan and topped with chilli and coriander, this oozing delight was a riot of flavours and by far one of the best things I've ever parted money with at a market.


Of course, we couldn't resist having something to wash them down with and snapped up a highly coveted spot at Little Bird Gin, a craft gin distillery. We kicked off with two Red Snappers each which came in weighty jugs with lashings of horseradish and spice, much to the envy of practically everyone who walked past.


Then, we tried the 'Perfect G&T' - their gin with Fever Tree tonic with a large slice of pink grapefruit (not too base), the Early Bird Martini - gin, cointreau, marmalade and pink grapefruit juice (tangy and fruity), the Barrel Aged Negroni - gin, Martini Rosso and oak barrel aged Campari (deliciously naughty and complete with a Little Bird) and the Whoops-A-Daisy - gin & orange liqueur, pomegranate, lemon and soda water (sweet and sherbety). So, essentially the entire menu plus another G&T each. Not bad going for the two of us, of course.

Places like Maltby Street Market remind me of the sheer creativity of street food and stalls. There's a hell of lot of passion put into these tiny pop-up places and whatever you're in the mood for, there's always something new to fall in love with.

Maltby Street Market's open 9am to 4pm on Saturdays & 11am to 4pm Sundays. You'll find it at SE1 3PA.
(top photo via as too busy munching again)
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12 April 2016

Sager + Wilde Restaurant, Bethnal Green



Sticking with Paradise Row, we headed back to Bethnal Green last Friday night for what turned out to be a very boozy evening. First up, were pre-dinner drinks and we decided to head to Sager + Wilde, the restaurant version of the brilliant wine bar in Hoxton where we'd had our second date.

It was just warm enough to sit outside - although the bar inside was very inviting - and soak up the music from Mother Kelly's next door. Any place that plays The Rolling Stones followed by Jimi Hendrix gets in my good books. Although when the sun went down, the heaters came on and there are plenty of blankets to wrap up in.

Whilst Sager + Wilde are praised for their brilliant wine list, we couldn't resist the cocktails which are divided into 'Long drinks', 'Burnt', 'Rocks', 'Fizz' and 'Straight up'. Of course, we were instantly drawn in by the promises of mescal and whisky and could look no further for the next forty five minutes.

For him, the Olive Oil Old Fashioned with a clear, slick and smooth lasting finish. For me, the Burnt Milk with burnt clarified milk, bay leaf, mescal, burnt caramel syrup, cassia and clarified lemon - an alcoholic creme caramel that I could have drank for days. And did, seeing as between us we ordered another two. Along with the Grand Cru - burnt lactic syrup and cognac that, when drank after the accompanying sparkling wine, left an intense, rich flavour in the mouth. And also the Burnt Maple which brought together burnt maple syrup, rye whisky, mescal and walnut bitters. All but one served in beautifully heavy tumblers with a single, thick ice cube. No fripperies, no flounce - just pure unadulterated alcohol.

Had we not been skipping down to Bistrotheque for dinner, we would have stayed all night and washed down this cracking sounding bar menu.


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14 November 2015

Senor Ceviche


'Do you remember the time we all locked ourselves in the bathroom and gave each other hickeys?!' A memory we'd all forgotten resurfaced this week when table talk turned to when we all first lived together. A flat with far too many stairs above an East end corner shop, a sticky lino kitchen floor and a box bedroom with the boiler that flooded. London: a baptism by fire for Sophie.

That was five years ago. Final years of university and Masters for some and first years of proper jobs and growing up for others. Ash and I still live together but Soph is West which means a bit more planning has to take place and when boyfriends and long days get thrown into the mix, it's easier said than done. But now we're all (whisper it) single, we keep finding reasons to order yet another cocktail.

Just like we did on Wednesday at Senor Ceviche. Part of the hugely successful Kingly Court development off Carnaby Street, a shining piazza of some seriously good restaurants, it's a  'Peruvian casa full of fun, food and cocktails'. Bustling and busy at 8pm, we were shown to our (booked!) table within 10 minutes and took up prime position next to the open kitchen.


First on the agenda were the cocktails. We each started with something different (because reasons) despite the photograph. Ash's Mancora Surfclub (Machu Pisco, elderflower, cucumber and apple) was fresh and light, Soph's Pisco Punch (Machu Pisco, lemon juice, rosemary and pineapple juice) was sweet and fragrant whilst my Mamacita! (El Jimador, Cointreau, lime juice, agave and fresh jalapeno) was tart with a perfect bite and a delicious salted, chilli rim.

Then onto the food. The menu here is divided into four sections but essentially it's about small plates and sharing dishes which, as I've mentioned countless times before, is perfect for me because I get serious food envy and it means you can try a thousand more things on the menu. Our friendly waitress recommended three dishes per person and between the three of us that meant we'd cover about half the menu. Dream.

Before we get into the specific dishes, I have to say that we ordered perfectly. Practically everything that arrived at the table was mouthwateringly brilliant and so consistent in quality that Senor Ceviche has shot to the top of my list.


First to arrive were the aubergine picarones - bites of eggplant in sweet potato tempura with a barbecue sauce and coriander yoghurt. Crisp and juicy, these were seriously moreish and we fought over the last one.


Then there was the jalea mixto - tempura baby squid, prawns and cod with a jalapeno mayo. I didn't manage to try any of the prawn but the squid and cod were firm and well cooked in the light batter and tossed with spring onion.


And the pork belly. Oh, the pork belly. Crisp, fatty pieces of melt-in-the-mouth slow cooked pork belly with a sweet soy jam, just the way I like it.


The two ceviches we chose were excellent. The house ceviche comprises of sea bass and octopus in the usual tiger's milk and topped with cubed avocado, tempura squid and sharp red onion, while The Spaniard added king prawn to the mix, tomato tiger's milk, chorizo and plantain. Generous portions of fish, freshly marinated and citrusy with plenty of sauce to mop up. I could eat this for days.


Next came the baby back ribs (which I didn't eat because I'm a heathen who doesn't like ribs) and the flat iron with uchucuta sauce (the Peruvian version of chimichurri). The rarest they'll serve it is medium rare but ours came on the more well done side of the medium scale; despite this, the meat was to die for and the parsley and mint salsa brought a sharp tang to the protein.


And for a bit of variation, the sweet potato fritas were nice enough (for someone who doesn't like sweet potato) and the quinoa saltero fresh and light. A generous mound of beetroot and feta sat atop the grain and, whilst underseasoned, acted as a nice little palate cleanser.

Somewhere in the middle two more rounds of cocktails were ordered, desserts were passed up on and setting the world to rights took place. You'll be pleased to hear we've grown out of our drunken hickey-giving antics but our taste in good venues hasn't waned in the slightest. Senor Ceviche, you were an utter delight and a five out of five.
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2 November 2015

The House of Peroni

(via)

A couple of years ago, I was invited to the opening night of the House of Peroni. Taking up a summer residency in a Georgian townhouse on Portland Place, it was a vibrant destination for food, drink and art. I skipped their summer opening in Shoreditch earlier this year but made it down to the unveiling of their newest month long location in Brick Lane last week. No Georgian townhouse here but a small door opposite the Truman Brewery takes you into an impeccably decorated warehouse space that's been transformed into a bright modern Italian home.

With dream Pinterest-ready styled kitchens and pantries, the ground floor is pristine and the perfect place to sip on a few of the exclusive cocktails, created by Simone Caporale. The Negroni Autumno is particularly good with the unusual but necessary addition of Peroni Nastro Azzuro as is the Madro Biancha which combines the beer with vodka, bergamot & yuzu juice and cypress tree syrup.

Upstairs there's art from the likes of Rhea Thierstein who's created a bedroom floating on clouds and Francesca Signori with her origami light fixtures. An immersive wander through their installations transports you into a faraway world. And when you've worked up an appetite, there's private dining available from Michelin-starred Sicilian chef Accursio Craparo.

The House of Peroni is open until 29 November and you'll find it at 152 Brick Lane.
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2 October 2015

Rev JW Simpson's Spirited Sermons: Santa Teresa rum


Behind a nondescript black door, down stairs lined with peeling wallpaper and in a former brothel, you’ll find Reverend JW Simpson: a compact bar with Prohibition at its heart. Their cocktails are creative and strong - think a pinot noir reduction with pink peppercorns stirred into bourbon and bitters, or tequila, campari, vermouth and absinthe shaken with an egg white.
Earlier this year, they introduced their weekly Spirited Sermons masterclasses, taking drinkers on an interactive journey through their favourite spirits and inviting guests to try their hand at shaking them to life. Following the huge success of the summer series, the Reverend returns with his autumn and winter line up and boy, are there some seriously tasty cocktails lined up for you to sample.
They invited me down to get to grips with Santa Teresa rum, a Venezuelan spirit that's made from molasses. First up, was sampling the spirit in a cocktail created for the event by the geniuses by the bar. I started with the 'Perfecta Dama' which combined Santa Teresa Anejo with orange-infused aperitif wine, fresh lemon, egg white and bitters. Served tall in a heavy cut crystal highball and garnished with mint, this was a light and refreshing entry into the game but it reminded me a little of a Moscow Mule with a citrus twist.
Then, came the making. I spent ten years behind a bar knocking up various concoctions so I'm not a total stranger to a shaker but mixologist Pauline put me through my strokes to make the 'Cafe Caspiroleta' - their take on the espresso martini. Add 40ml of the Santa Teresa Claro (2 to 3 year aged white rum), 40ml of the homemade coffee and vanilla spirit, shake with ice and strain into a coup before delicately topping with a dulce de leche foam and garnishing with white chocolate. Thankfully no high pressure cream foam accidents, but a rich and tasty cocktail that actually pipped a few of its rivals to prime favourite.
Finally came the tasting with brand ambassador Stuart. He explained that Santa Teresa was established in 1796 at a family-run hacienda where the treaty for the abolition of slavery in Venezuela was signed. You might not have heard of Santa Teresa - that's because Venezuela's civil war and high taxes makes it difficult to export, and richer brands such as Havana Club or Bacardi (from Cuba) have the money to pour into marketing over here - but its Anejo (aged 3 to 5 years) is the biggest selling rum over there.

The rum itself is light and dry, not super sweet but quite peppery because of how it's fermented and distilled with a patented yeast through a column. It's aged in American oak before being transferred to cognac barrels, which gives it tobacco and leather undertones, and makes it spicy like whisky. Nice. And a huge departure from the naval grog of years gone by (so named after the admiral's coat 'groggan' and believed to have cured scurvy, when in fact it was the squeeze of lime added to the rations of 3 parts rum, 1 parts water to make it palatable). And the expression 'fill your boots'? Well, if you didn't have a vessel to hand when the rum came round, footwear was the next best thing.

And it's interesting to see how rum threads its way through history, from pirate's currency to Project Alcatraz. When one of the Santa Teresa brothers was mugged in 2000, he offered the gang members a job and a place to live rather than turning them into the police. His only caveat? They have to play rugby - to learn discipline and respect. The project has grown into a huge rehabilitation centre and yep, there are plenty of strapping lads on hand to help.

Sadly they didn't bring the players over to the masterclass but instead plenty of rum. And there's loads of other Spirited Sermons sessions in over the next few weeks:

6 October: Makers Mark
13 October: Kappa pisco
27 October: El Jimador tequila
10 November: Konik's Tail vodka
24 November: Nikka whisky
1 December: Old Forester Bourbon

Tickets cost £25 and you get three cocktails and the masterclass - book them here.

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4 August 2015

Dandelyan


You may have noticed things have been a bit quiet over here. It's not that I haven't had things to say, I've just been throwing myself into other things temporarily following the break up earlier this year. Some of these things involve new places and others not so new, so it's all about claiming them back and new experiences. Like Dandelyan last night.

After a few drinks but disappointing food at The Refinery, we decided to call in at Sea Containers for a nightcap or two. The luxurious bar is perfectly positioned on the South Bank, and best at night when the city lights over the Thames come to life. On paper, the decor shouldn't work - deep greens and purples and crushed velvets mixed with a marble bar - but if Dandelyan was a person, it would ooze charisma, leading the resurgence in good hotel bars, having recently won the 'Best New International Cocktail Bar'.

The drinks are seasonal and 'botanical', the menu divided into ingredients such as 'birch', 'poplar' and 'oak'. Within these are lighter drinks more suited to the daytime, or boozier, richer alternatives for late night escapades. We started with the Iberico Sour (acorn ham mezcal, tapatio reposado, lemon, endive and oak honey) which was deliciously smoky, meaty and bitter with that agave bite, and The Cooper (seaweed-infused redbreast, oak moss, lemon and cucumber) which was the refreshing lighter little sister. 

Next up was the Crimson Waxwork, a tumbler coated with beeswax and topped up with beeswax cognac, bee pollen, cocchi americano and oak bitters. Much deeper and sensual with a lingering smooth finish, this one almost stole the show were it not for the classic Concrete Sazerac. Cognac, fermented peychaud, absinthe and edible concrete, this is one of my favourite drinks in London at the moment. It's an achingly sexy drink that balances all the right flavours.

Topped off with a great mix of music, the impeccable lobby decor and really friendly staff, Dandelyan is the perfect nighttime stop. I'm just dying to check out the rooms above next.
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6 June 2015

Pachamama


The two biggest things on the London foodie scene have finally come together under the skilled eye of chef Adam Rawson: enter a British brunch Peruvian style. I'll admit, I wasn't sure how ceviche and cornbread could compete with firm favourites such as avocado toast and eggs Benny but Pachamama is really turning things on its head.

A beautiful basement bar tucked a few streets behind Oxford Street, Pachamama is a real beauty to stumble into on a Saturday morning. Combining rustic tables, rambling plants and even a full-size horse light fitting with a welcoming wooden and tiled bar, the attention to detail here is reassuringly good and it continues through to the food and drink.


Of course, we kicked off with the mostly pisco based cocktails, reassuring ourselves it was midday somewhere in the world. I was drawn to the Rosa del Inca (pisco with pink peppercorns, coffee beans, vermouth, campari and orange bitters) and had to order a second, it was so good. A South American twist on the negroni, this had real warmth and depth and the obligatory kick of booze to start the day. Sophie had something floral with flavours of raspberry running through it that was simply divine.
Then came the food. We were presented with a few of the chef's favourites which led to a bit of guessing as the smiley waiter sort of mumbled the dish then left us to it. First up were the bacon and cheese tacachos - a sort of combination of a croquette and an arancini with roasted banana all up in the mix, these were brilliant. Oozing cheese paired with smoked meat and a fresh mango salsa is now the key to my heart.



Then came towering sliders of pork belly with a lightly pickled slaw and a spiked mayo, and a large skillet of baked eggs with avocado, samphire and 'farmers cheese' in a rich tomato sauce. This was quite similar to shakshuka, a definite brunch favourite, and while Soph wasn't convinced by the cheese ('it's like paneer') I was too busy spooning it on to my plate.



The last two dishes were even better than the ones that came before - the salmon ceviche with beetroot and avocado simply sang. The tiger milk cut through the hearty flavours of the baked eggs and the earthy beetroot was a lovely accompaniment that I would fight anyone for, just you wait. Soph's favourite was the smoked brisket with plantain hash, corn and an HP aji (that's the British bit making a reappearance!) - big enough for the both of us to simply not be able to finish.


Desserts were breathtaking. A mazzamora morada cheesecake with a spiced berry sorbet and edible flowers was quite possibly the prettiest thing I've ever eaten. With a baked cheesecake consistency and a rich base, this was the heavier pudding while the suspiro de limena got my vote. A meringue with a basil and lemon sugar/sorbet crumbled over the top hid a custard and a strawberry heart. This was pure genius and the right combination of sweet and cleansing.

Brunch by way of Peru might not be the most obvious combination but by god, is it a winning one. Pachamama is one hot mama worth waking up for. Five out of five.
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22 May 2015

Original Sin



Sharing its name with a classic INXS song (sorry, had to slip that in), Original Sin is another blink-and-you'll-miss-it bar tucked off Stoke Newington High Street, beneath burger joint Stokey Bears. It opened at the beginning of the year but shamefully (because it's only a short walk from my flat) I only made it down a couple of weeks ago.

We sat at the bar and it was by far the best decision. Veteran frequenters Matt and Ella have already worked their way through the menu so our prime positions gave us the perfect opportunity to go off menu and leave it up the hugely knowledgeable and creative women behind the bar. Matt went for something involving cognac, rye and amontillado (sherry's the next big thing) while Ella and I each kicked off with twisted negronis - hers sprayed with Laphroaig, mine infused campari and vermouth with mescal and chocolate bitters, finished with a sprig of rosemary that was set alight, blown out and used as a stirrer. The oils in the herb complemented the smokiness of the mescal and the rich undertones of the cocoa - I think this may quite possibly be a new favourite cocktail.

Then things took a darker turn. I was presented with a glorious drink that combined tequila, orange rhum, coffee liqeur and St Elizabeth Allspice Dram. Deliciously rich, this is a drink that works on so many levels as each ingredient takes a turn at commanding the floor. The sweetness of the cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg were pleasantly dulled by the bitter coffee and I'm totally all over tequila in cocktails at the moment.

We finished the night with an unexpected shot of sazerac that they'd made for one the bar back's leaving party the next day. These guys sure know their way around a bottle or two.

This neighbourhood bar is a real find. From the friendliest faces to the civilised pool table in the corner, it's a dimly lit destination for dates and mates, whatever the motivation. Five out of five.

(Photo via)
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8 May 2015

Tequila tasting with Herradura

Most people's experiences of tequila involve a questionable choice towards the latter part of the night, a wedge of lime and salt. It's not often anybody's first choice for a civilised drink when faced with an entire back bar of bottles.



This is something that Herradura is trying to change. Established in 1869, the Herradura hacienda sits within one of the four regions in Mexico that can distil tequila. It's a family business with the jimadors passing on their knowledge from father to son which can take a while as the particular type of agave (there are 150 different kinds) takes 8 years to grow.

We tried three different types of tequila last night - plata, reposado and anejo. All made from Blue Weber agave and aged in virgin American oak, it's the distillation and resting times that effects the taste, colour and alcoholic volume of the tequila.

Plata's a blanco and most commonly used in cocktails given its slightly sugary nature. Once picked, it's cooked for 24 hours, crushed and then fermented with airborne yeast for 5 days before being heated and distilled twice. Unlike other blancos, it's not mixed with sugar cane products so you get the clearer taste and a proof of around 40 to 50%. It's vanillay and doesn't pack that reeling punch that quick line tequilas so often do.

Next up was the reposado. There's no difference in the ageing process, it's just rested for longer and is the number one bestselling tequila in Mexico. It's more of a sipping than a shotting drink and is woody and peppery like a whisky.


Finally there was the anejo. It's aged for between 1 and 3 years to create a mellow, warm drink that's perfect in Old Fashioneds or on its own. Serving it with ice helps bring the flavours out and takes the edge off the ethanol hit. This is your premium tequila that's about £15-£20 a pop at a bar so probably not one you're going to rack up at the bar with your mates.

It was really interesting how the ageing process produced such a woody, whiskey type drink despite being in virgin barrels. As someone that's going through a huge whiskey phase, I'll definitely reconsider my options when faced with an anejo or two. And I'll definitely reorder a sangrita - a shot followed by a hugely spicy tomato based chaser. Perfect.

For the slightly more affordable end of the market, there's the El Jimador brand which is great when mixed in espresso martinis, Tommy's margaritas or Bloody Marys, if that's your kinda thing too.

Herradura is available in good bars and Selfridges but you should totally snap it up this week at Bourne & Hollingsworth Building's Last Libations Cinqo de Mayo event and make the most of their gorgeous outside in room.



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1 May 2015

Loves Company


A bar that combines cocktail with cheese toasties? Welcome to Loves Company. Somewhat strangely placed (it's right on the edge of Old Street roundabout), stepping into this place for the first time is like stepping into somewhere familiar. A tiny wedge of a corridor funnels you towards the even tinier bar and a few always occupied stools where fellow customers spend hours chatting to the ridiculously friendly and Hawaiian shirt attired barmen.

We went on a Wednesday night and were welcomed in by a cardboard cut out of the absent manager Russell giving us a big thumbs up. Great start. Next, we were given menus with a short array of cocktails to choose from but Ella, Matt and Tim being old timers went off-piste with off-menu orders. Whilst I was deciding what to have, three Mezcal spiked drinks appeared: the guys had rustled up variations of a Negroni and a spritz. When it came to mine, I was asked what I liked (Old Fashioneds) and mezcal Old Fashioned with chocolate bitters materialised. A smoky take on a classic with a bit of bite and simultaneous sweetness, this was seriously impressive.

We didn't try the toasties this time but the smell of the melting cheese had us wistfully wishing we had enough room to fit them in. A relatively quiet but still raucous Wednesday evening, apparently this place is heaving upstairs and downstairs at weekends and yet the barmen still find the time to know your name. Loves Company indeed.

(Photo via Matt The List)
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30 April 2015

The Jam Tree, Clapham



I've lived in London seven and a half years and last Wednesday was my second foray to Clapham - the first was to the Chicago Rib Shack launch with the Try This For team just last year. I don't know a great deal about SW4 other than there's a club called Inferno's and recently there's been a whole host of new openings recently that really are worth a look in. Last week, The Jam Tree invited me down to try and show me that it's worth crossing the river once in a while.




I had some time to kill after a meeting and walked from Marylebone to Clapham - a cool 4.4 miles across town - meaning I was ready for a cocktail or two. As well as the classics (and a very tempting Bloody Mary menu that included homemade beef stock as an ingredient in one), The Jam Tree's signatures are their concoctions made with jam. They recommended I try the Confiture (Cariel Vanilla vodka shaken with raspberry jam, Chambord and pineapple juice) and boy, was it good. Ideally sweet but without being overly saccharine, it was a great introduction to their list. Next up was the Damson In A Dress (Damson vodka, Martini Bianco, lime jam and prosecco) which was the perfect antidote with that vermouth bite cutting through the fruitiness.

We were there to try the new menu from Executive Chef Gary Smith who aims to 'create globally inspired plates bursting with flavour. The menu comprises an assortment of small and big plates as well as hearty sharing dishes, perfect for enjoying with groups of friends'. We started with the sotong manis (sticky battered squid) - large pieces of squid in a sweet honey and soy dip with a little added heat from chilli. A nice touch to a perennial favourite. I spied 'lardo' and had to have the lardo and braised Scotch Bonnets on toast - bitesize delights with a real kick. The chilli here outshone the lardo which was a shame but a nice try nonetheless. Finally, we shared the buttermilk fried rabbit. I've never eaten rabbit so had no idea what to expect but was surprised it was a whiter meat than I'd imagined. Less gamey too. Good when dipped in the hot sauce but I doubt I'd order again.




Moving on to mains, we originally planned to share the salt baked sea bass with caponata and polenta but another table nabbed the last one so A chose the hanger steak with chips and salsa verdi. Nicely cooked, it was melt in the mouth and I enjoyed my bites but A found the rosemaryed meat a bit too much for him. I went for two more starters - the salmon tartare which was nice and came with the seasoning on the side to fold in yourself. I'm not a massive fan of pumpernickel bread but that's an aside and I used my toasts from the very buttery potted shrimp to dip into the two.





Service was friendly and attentive and the recommendations were good. The restaurant around us was filled with lots of dates and a couple of groups at the bar. Windows open onto the street and there's a large garden area out the back that is no doubt rammed on Fridays and Saturdays when things really kick off at The Jam Tree. Would I venture south of the river again? Yes - to check out those ridiculously brilliant sounding Bloody Marys.
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28 April 2015

Nightjar

(via)
There are a lot of incredible cocktail bars in London but I think I've found the best. A stone's throw away from Old Street roundabout, you'll find a large wooden door between two nondescript cafes - blink and you'll miss it if you don't look out for the small gold plaque with an etched black bird.

Once in and downstairs, you'll find yourselves in a prohibition, speakeasy bar adorned with trinkets and objets just dying to be investigated. Dimly lit nooks and crannies are great for cosying up in while the booths at the back are perfect for four and give you an ideal view of the live blues band. The bar itself is wooden with an impressive array of bottles behind it but it's the barmen who really bring the magic to life here.
The cocktails are divided into five areas - pre-Prohibition (1880-1918), Prohibition (1918-1932), Post-War (1932-now), Nightjar signatures and those great for sharing, but you'll barely notice these divisions as you'll be captivated by the concoctions themselves.

Now, between four of us we managed to get through a staggering 30 different cocktails. Perhaps not the most responsible of activities but all in the name of research, I'm sure you'll agree? I was in the market for dessert-like drinks rather than my usual whisky based wonders and I wasn't disappointed as two of my choices were amongst my favourites...

The others ordered from the fantastical menus and received teacups of booze with chocolate covered bacon, concoctions served in baobab roots, martini glasses with edible seaweed, chocolate spoons and ceramic jars topped with a flaming absinthe soaked sponge. Every single thing we ordered came out with the most impeccable presentation and differed from the one before. We shared a Rochester Press that came steaming in two french presses and a Rosedale Punch served in a large metal owl. This place kept the surprises coming thick and fast.

We sipped and supped whilst the band played on and I felt transported back to a time where moonshine bootleggers wouldn't have felt out of place. I've been light on details as Nightjar is simply magical and I urge you to join in the experience yourself.
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9 April 2015

Bourne & Hollingsworth Bar


Hidden in plain sight on a corner, down some nondescript wrought iron stairs, lies Bourne & Hollingsworth. From the same family as the Rev JW Simpson, and big sister to the newly opened B&H Buildings in Clerkenwell, Bourne & Hollingsworth is petal prohibition. A small square of a room with distressed furniture around the edges and a Victorian fireplace along one of the very floral walls, you'd be forgiven for thinking you'd stumbled into your great grandmother's living room. At first glance, it might feel a little odd but a couple of strong cocktails later, you'll find yourself in full swing.

Cocktails here aren't for the faint-hearted, the flavours and measures here are bold. We headed down on Monday night last week to check out the new Spring menu - strangely, the new ones I'd heard about were nowhere to be seen so we got stuck in with some of the classics on the menu. Quite a few are served in china teacups - I'm a little over this twee detail but I suspect B&H were 'doing it before it became a thing' elsewhere - or jamjars. Our favourites were 'Hoof' (in aforementioned teacup) which combined Irn Bru reduction with vodka into a guiltily bright orange concoction and another whose name escapes me that mixed white port with grape juice, vodka and soda and came in the ubiquitous jar.

This place pulls in the crowds at the weekend and finding a seat or a table can be tricky. It's a good little pitstop on your night out but it might not be your final destination.

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18 March 2015

The Alchemist


Suits, skyscrapers and scandal is what most springs to mind when you think of the City. Buzzing during the week, deserted at the weekend and not always the cheapest place to wine and dine, London's Square Mile doesn't have quite the same pull as some of its more characterful counterparts. Which is perhaps why The Alchemist chose to set up shop in Bevis Marks, a former banking hall just round the corner from the Heron Tower, the Gherkin and 20 Fenchurch Street - to change the scenery of city socialising.

It's an impeccably finished location, complimenting the building's beautiful original features with strings of industrial style lighting and a gloriously polished bar front and back. Deep leather sofas frame the windows while high tables allow you to get intimate - there's a decadent atmosphere too, a warmth that encourages you to stay for just another round, surely. 

And talking of rounds, we were keen to put The Alchemist's cocktail menu through its paces. No ordinary cocktail menu this - as the name suggests, these concoctions aim to please with their signature, crafted 'Molecular Madness' drinks taking mixology to a whole other level. Forget about changing water into wine, the brilliant barmen use all sorts of secret tricks to conjure up new creations.

We started with the Dead Red Zombie - a fruity number with a rum base that came in a tall glass, topped with passionfruit, and bubbling and smoking like the mist in a horror movie. Our barman explained that they use a secret ingredient that reacts with the alcohol to produce this ghoulish effect, just perfect for Halloween, and incredibly moreish without being too sweet. 

Next up was the Maple Manhattan - a Wild Turkey bourbon with bitters, citrus and a fluffy maple syrup foam that added sweetness to the dry whiskey. Served in a martini coupe, this was a sultry, warm and yet not too heavy starter for ten that hit the sweet spot jackpot.


And, knowing that every barman has his favourite, we asked for a recommendation and were presented with the Mad Hatter's Tea Party to share. A chemistry set was brought to the table, herbs and fruits were placed in glass beakers and after some boiling and burning and more secret ingredient pouring, a fragrant steam was being poured into china tea cups as an interpretation of our little sumer picnic. With mint, strawberries and elderflower all in the mix, this tasted like a crazy professor had got his hands on a classic Pimm's recipe and used plenty of vodka and Cointreau for good measure.

The great thing about The Alchemist is how interactive the drinks feel; instead of the traditional transactional experience, the friendly and knowledgeable team here really go to great lengths to make you feel involved. If you prefer to err on the more familiar side of the menu, they have whole sections for classics, for sharing, for the abstainers and even for those wanting a commemorative hip flask. And if you're one of those people who like getting their hands dirty - there are even cocktail masterclasses where they walk you through making and drinking some of your favourites.

But it isn't all about the cocktails. The Alchemist's open all day, serving up breakfast for you early risers and ones for the road for you late leavers. The restaurant covers all bases so it's the ideal location for a lazy weekend when the thought of suits, skyscrapers and scandal can take a very definite backseat - let these sorcerers work their magic.

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4 March 2015

The Stevedores

Some things are clear matches made in heaven: strawberries and cream, cheese and biscuits, chocolate and caramel... A less obvious combination is beer and whiskey. I'll admit that it's only in the last couple of years that I've actually enjoyed drinking either - whether it's a couple of pints after work or the automatic order of an Old Fashioned, you'd be hard pushed to find me drinking anything neon blue that comes served in a pitcher.

I'm not the only one, of course, and beer and whiskey are nothing new but a pop-up bar that just serves craft beer and Bulleit whiskey all the way from Brooklyn definitely is. Taking over a former pickle factory across the street from an old gas works, The Stevedores is a bluesy, industrial Prohibition style jaunt in its last of a six week run bringing some of the finest flavours together to killer tunes (think The Rolling Stones, T-Rex, The Doors).


The barrels are changed every Wednesday, with Tuesdays being happy hour prices until the keg kicks. First up, we started with the Buxton Living End, an Imperial Stout IPA that's aged in bourbon barrels for a hoppy, malty yet smooth taste. Once empty, the beer barrels are then filled with Jiminez scotch leading to craft bourbons with that warm beer finish.


Then we moved on to food from Pull & Punch. Unlike most restaurants where food and drink are at opposite ends of the scale, chef Rich has deliberately created menus that are influenced by the flavours of the beer on the bar. Take the Sorportel pork bun (a pulled pork burger brought to life with cumin, cloves and turmeric) that went down swimmingly with the whiskey sour made from Session IPA gomme. Or the Issan carbs (Thai style potatoes with coconut and basil) that work brilliantly with lighter pale ales such as the Brew By Numbers IPA (think grapefruit, lemon and mango).

We finished up with a couple of stouts (I like the peanut buttery Yankee Sandwich), some smooth shots of the Bulleit Rye and Bullet Whiskey as well as the best Old Fashioned I've tried yet. A tantalisingly silky take on the classic with an unbeatable stout gomme chocolatiness that I think mixologists will be hard-pressed to surpass.

The Stevedores run is ending this week so catch it while you can. The brains behind it are back later this year with a craft beer festival and I'll be first in line for a pint or two of the good stuff.

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