The House of Peroni

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A couple of years ago, I was invited to the opening night of the House of Peroni. Taking up a summer residency in a Georgian townhouse on Portland Place, it was a vibrant destination for food, drink and art. I skipped their summer opening in Shoreditch earlier this year but made it down to the unveiling of their newest month long location in Brick Lane last week. No Georgian townhouse here but a small door opposite the Truman Brewery takes you into an impeccably decorated warehouse space that's been transformed into a bright modern Italian home.

With dream Pinterest-ready styled kitchens and pantries, the ground floor is pristine and the perfect place to sip on a few of the exclusive cocktails, created by Simone Caporale. The Negroni Autumno is particularly good with the unusual but necessary addition of Peroni Nastro Azzuro as is the Madro Biancha which combines the beer with vodka, bergamot & yuzu juice and cypress tree syrup.

Upstairs there's art from the likes of Rhea Thierstein who's created a bedroom floating on clouds and Francesca Signori with her origami light fixtures. An immersive wander through their installations transports you into a faraway world. And when you've worked up an appetite, there's private dining available from Michelin-starred Sicilian chef Accursio Craparo.

The House of Peroni is open until 29 November and you'll find it at 152 Brick Lane.

Rev JW Simpson's Spirited Sermons: Santa Teresa rum

Behind a nondescript black door, down stairs lined with peeling wallpaper and in a former brothel, you’ll find Reverend JW Simpson: a compact bar with Prohibition at its heart. Their cocktails are creative and strong - think a pinot noir reduction with pink peppercorns stirred into bourbon and bitters, or tequila, campari, vermouth and absinthe shaken with an egg white.
Earlier this year, they introduced their weekly Spirited Sermons masterclasses, taking drinkers on an interactive journey through their favourite spirits and inviting guests to try their hand at shaking them to life. Following the huge success of the summer series, the Reverend returns with his autumn and winter line up and boy, are there some seriously tasty cocktails lined up for you to sample.

They invited me down to get to grips with Santa Teresa rum, a Venezuelan spirit that's made from molasses. First up, was sampling the spirit in a cocktail created for the event by the geniuses by the bar. I started with the 'Perfecta Dama' which combined Santa Teresa Anejo with orange-infused aperitif wine, fresh lemon, egg white and bitters. Served tall in a heavy cut crystal highball and garnished with mint, this was a light and refreshing entry into the game but it reminded me a little of a Moscow Mule with a citrus twist.

Then, came the making. I spent ten years behind a bar knocking up various concoctions so I'm not a total stranger to a shaker but mixologist Pauline put me through my strokes to make the 'Cafe Caspiroleta' - their take on the espresso martini. Add 40ml of the Santa Teresa Claro (2 to 3 year aged white rum), 40ml of the homemade coffee and vanilla spirit, shake with ice and strain into a coup before delicately topping with a dulce de leche foam and garnishing with white chocolate. Thankfully no high pressure cream foam accidents, but a rich and tasty cocktail that actually pipped a few of its rivals to prime favourite.
Finally came the tasting with brand ambassador Stuart. He explained that Santa Teresa was established in 1796 at a family-run hacienda where the treaty for the abolition of slavery in Venezuela was signed. You might not have heard of Santa Teresa - that's because Venezuela's civil war and high taxes makes it difficult to export, and richer brands such as Havana Club or Bacardi (from Cuba) have the money to pour into marketing over here - but its Anejo (aged 3 to 5 years) is the biggest selling rum over there.

The rum itself is light and dry, not super sweet but quite peppery because of how it's fermented and distilled with a patented yeast through a column. It's aged in American oak before being transferred to cognac barrels, which gives it tobacco and leather undertones, and makes it spicy like whisky. Nice. And a huge departure from the naval grog of years gone by (so named after the admiral's coat 'groggan' and believed to have cured scurvy, when in fact it was the squeeze of lime added to the rations of 3 parts rum, 1 parts water to make it palatable). And the expression 'fill your boots'? Well, if you didn't have a vessel to hand when the rum came round, footwear was the next best thing.

And it's interesting to see how rum threads its way through history, from pirate's currency to Project Alcatraz. When one of the Santa Teresa brothers was mugged in 2000, he offered the gang members a job and a place to live rather than turning them into the police. His only caveat? They have to play rugby - to learn discipline and respect. The project has grown into a huge rehabilitation centre and yep, there are plenty of strapping lads on hand to help.

Sadly they didn't bring the players over to the masterclass but instead plenty of rum. And there's loads of other Spirited Sermons sessions in over the next few weeks:

6 October: Makers Mark

13 October: Kappa pisco

27 October: El Jimador tequila

10 November: Konik's Tail vodka

24 November: Nikka whisky

1 December: Old Forester Bourbon

Tickets cost £25 and you get three cocktails and the masterclass - book them here.

Original Sin

Sharing its name with a classic INXS song (sorry, had to slip that in), Original Sin is another blink-and-you'll-miss-it bar tucked off Stoke Newington High Street, beneath burger joint Stokey Bears. It opened at the beginning of the year but shamefully (because it's only a short walk from my flat) I only made it down a couple of weeks ago.

We sat at the bar and it was by far the best decision. Veteran frequenters Matt and Ella have already worked their way through the menu so our prime positions gave us the perfect opportunity to go off menu and leave it up the hugely knowledgeable and creative women behind the bar. Matt went for something involving cognac, rye and amontillado (sherry's the next big thing) while Ella and I each kicked off with twisted negronis - hers sprayed with Laphroaig, mine infused campari and vermouth with mescal and chocolate bitters, finished with a sprig of rosemary that was set alight, blown out and used as a stirrer. The oils in the herb complemented the smokiness of the mescal and the rich undertones of the cocoa - I think this may quite possibly be a new favourite cocktail.

Then things took a darker turn. I was presented with a glorious drink that combined tequila, orange rhum, coffee liqeur and St Elizabeth Allspice Dram. Deliciously rich, this is a drink that works on so many levels as each ingredient takes a turn at commanding the floor. The sweetness of the cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg were pleasantly dulled by the bitter coffee and I'm totally all over tequila in cocktails at the moment.

We finished the night with an unexpected shot of sazerac that they'd made for one the bar back's leaving party the next day. These guys sure know their way around a bottle or two.

This neighbourhood bar is a real find. From the friendliest faces to the civilised pool table in the corner, it's a dimly lit destination for dates and mates, whatever the motivation. Five out of five.

(Photo via)

Bull In A China Shop

Blink and you'll miss it. A small, black fronted restaurant opposite BoxPark and The Tea Building, Bull In A China Shop is a new opening from the guys behind dim sum favourites, The Drunken Monkey. Described as a rotisserie chicken restaurant and whiskey bar, we headed down a couple of days after the launch to check it out.

The bar itself is beautiful. Polished brass extends along one side with a bustling back bar filled to the brim with prime Japanese and Scottish whiskey bottles. At the far end, there's an open kitchen showcasing the spinning chickens and a prime photography spot for plates. Seating tucks around the corner and accommodates up to 40 apparently but it may be a bit of a squeeze.

We kicked off with complimentary wings, butchered from the rotisserie with one hell of a cleaver. Sticky and sweet, these were a nice intro - and I usually shy away from wings. Onto the mains, we each went for something in their charcoal buns. I went for the halloumi and red pepper offering which was a tastier combination than I was expecting but ultimately let down by the dry and tasteless bap - a gimmick too far perhaps? Matt's fish burger was so-so but Ella enjoyed her chicken burger so one for the team there.

Accompanying these we had six of the salads - they do medium and large sizes but if you ask nicely, they'll squish all six into two dishes for you. On paper they sounded great but in reality, they were a bit hit and miss with a bizarrely dry quinoa offering but a good slaw to counteract it. The unanimous showstoppers, however, were the deep fried cauliflower cheese bites that I could have eaten all evening.

Dessert was a bread and pudding offering with charcoal bun running through it and a gloriously sweet, cinnamony custard over the top that was then finished with a blowtorched sugar. A nice thing to share although I don't know if they're planning on it putting it on the menu.

Where Bull In A China Shop really excels, as you may expect, is their whiskey. Carefully curated, they have an extensive list and are more than happy to recommend. We were given a taste of their 12 year old Nikkai which isn't arriving in Europe until October and Hibiki's Japanese harmony, a blend of two of their more popular offerings. Smooth and rich, these tumblers along with the accompanying cocktails were the stars of the show.

Would I go back? The food was suffering some teething problems I think but the whiskey hits the mark so definitely one for the liquor lovers.

All photos via Matt The List because they are quite frankly incredible

Loves Company

A bar that combines cocktail with cheese toasties? Welcome to Loves Company. Somewhat strangely placed (it's right on the edge of Old Street roundabout), stepping into this place for the first time is like stepping into somewhere familiar. A tiny wedge of a corridor funnels you towards the even tinier bar and a few always occupied stools where fellow customers spend hours chatting to the ridiculously friendly and Hawaiian shirt attired barmen.

We went on a Wednesday night and were welcomed in by a cardboard cut out of the absent manager Russell giving us a big thumbs up. Great start. Next, we were given menus with a short array of cocktails to choose from but Ella, Matt and Tim being old timers went off-piste with off-menu orders. Whilst I was deciding what to have, three Mezcal spiked drinks appeared: the guys had rustled up variations of a Negroni and a spritz. When it came to mine, I was asked what I liked (Old Fashioneds) and mezcal Old Fashioned with chocolate bitters materialised. A smoky take on a classic with a bit of bite and simultaneous sweetness, this was seriously impressive.

We didn't try the toasties this time but the smell of the melting cheese had us wistfully wishing we had enough room to fit them in. A relatively quiet but still raucous Wednesday evening, apparently this place is heaving upstairs and downstairs at weekends and yet the barmen still find the time to know your name. Loves Company indeed.

(Photo via Matt The List)

Nightjar

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There are a lot of incredible cocktail bars in London but I think I've found the best. A stone's throw away from Old Street roundabout, you'll find a large wooden door between two nondescript cafes - blink and you'll miss it if you don't look out for the small gold plaque with an etched black bird.

Once in and downstairs, you'll find yourselves in a prohibition, speakeasy bar adorned with trinkets and objets just dying to be investigated. Dimly lit nooks and crannies are great for cosying up in while the booths at the back are perfect for four and give you an ideal view of the live blues band. The bar itself is wooden with an impressive array of bottles behind it but it's the barmen who really bring the magic to life here.

The cocktails are divided into five areas - pre-Prohibition (1880-1918), Prohibition (1918-1932), Post-War (1932-now), Nightjar signatures and those great for sharing, but you'll barely notice these divisions as you'll be captivated by the concoctions themselves.

Now, between four of us we managed to get through a staggering 30 different cocktails. Perhaps not the most responsible of activities but all in the name of research, I'm sure you'll agree? I was in the market for dessert-like drinks rather than my usual whisky based wonders and I wasn't disappointed as two of my choices were amongst my favourites...

The others ordered from the fantastical menus and received teacups of booze with chocolate covered bacon, concoctions served in baobab roots, martini glasses with edible seaweed, chocolate spoons and ceramic jars topped with a flaming absinthe soaked sponge. Every single thing we ordered came out with the most impeccable presentation and differed from the one before. We shared a Rochester Press that came steaming in two french presses and a Rosedale Punch served in a large metal owl. This place kept the surprises coming thick and fast.

We sipped and supped whilst the band played on and I felt transported back to a time where moonshine bootleggers wouldn't have felt out of place. I've been light on details as Nightjar is simply magical and I urge you to join in the experience yourself.

Bourne & Hollingsworth Bar

Hidden in plain sight on a corner, down some nondescript wrought iron stairs, lies Bourne & Hollingsworth. From the same family as the Rev JW Simpson, and big sister to the newly opened B&H Buildings in Clerkenwell, Bourne & Hollingsworth is petal prohibition. A small square of a room with distressed furniture around the edges and a Victorian fireplace along one of the very floral walls, you'd be forgiven for thinking you'd stumbled into your great grandmother's living room. At first glance, it might feel a little odd but a couple of strong cocktails later, you'll find yourself in full swing.

Cocktails here aren't for the faint-hearted, the flavours and measures here are bold. We headed down on Monday night last week to check out the new Spring menu - strangely, the new ones I'd heard about were nowhere to be seen so we got stuck in with some of the classics on the menu. Quite a few are served in china teacups - I'm a little over this twee detail but I suspect B&H were 'doing it before it became a thing' elsewhere - or jamjars. Our favourites were 'Hoof' (in aforementioned teacup) which combined Irn Bru reduction with vodka into a guiltily bright orange concoction and another whose name escapes me that mixed white port with grape juice, vodka and soda and came in the ubiquitous jar.

This place pulls in the crowds at the weekend and finding a seat or a table can be tricky. It's a good little pitstop on your night out but it might not be your final destination.

(Photo via)

The Alchemist

Suits, skyscrapers and scandal is what most springs to mind when you think of the City. Buzzing during the week, deserted at the weekend and not always the cheapest place to wine and dine, London's Square Mile doesn't have quite the same pull as some of its more characterful counterparts. Which is perhaps why The Alchemist chose to set up shop in Bevis Marks, a former banking hall just round the corner from the Heron Tower, the Gherkin and 20 Fenchurch Street - to change the scenery of city socialising.

It's an impeccably finished location, complimenting the building's beautiful original features with strings of industrial style lighting and a gloriously polished bar front and back. Deep leather sofas frame the windows while high tables allow you to get intimate - there's a decadent atmosphere too, a warmth that encourages you to stay for just another round, surely. 

And talking of rounds, we were keen to put The Alchemist's cocktail menu through its paces. No ordinary cocktail menu this - as the name suggests, these concoctions aim to please with their signature, crafted 'Molecular Madness' drinks taking mixology to a whole other level. Forget about changing water into wine, the brilliant barmen use all sorts of secret tricks to conjure up new creations.

We started with the Dead Red Zombie - a fruity number with a rum base that came in a tall glass, topped with passionfruit, and bubbling and smoking like the mist in a horror movie. Our barman explained that they use a secret ingredient that reacts with the alcohol to produce this ghoulish effect, just perfect for Halloween, and incredibly moreish without being too sweet. 

Next up was the Maple Manhattan - a Wild Turkey bourbon with bitters, citrus and a fluffy maple syrup foam that added sweetness to the dry whiskey. Served in a martini coupe, this was a sultry, warm and yet not too heavy starter for ten that hit the sweet spot jackpot.

And, knowing that every barman has his favourite, we asked for a recommendation and were presented with the Mad Hatter's Tea Party to share. A chemistry set was brought to the table, herbs and fruits were placed in glass beakers and after some boiling and burning and more secret ingredient pouring, a fragrant steam was being poured into china tea cups as an interpretation of our little sumer picnic. With mint, strawberries and elderflower all in the mix, this tasted like a crazy professor had got his hands on a classic Pimm's recipe and used plenty of vodka and Cointreau for good measure.

The great thing about The Alchemist is how interactive the drinks feel; instead of the traditional transactional experience, the friendly and knowledgeable team here really go to great lengths to make you feel involved. If you prefer to err on the more familiar side of the menu, they have whole sections for classics, for sharing, for the abstainers and even for those wanting a commemorative hip flask. And if you're one of those people who like getting their hands dirty - there are even cocktail masterclasses where they walk you through making and drinking some of your favourites.

But it isn't all about the cocktails. The Alchemist's open all day, serving up breakfast for you early risers and ones for the road for you late leavers. The restaurant covers all bases so it's the ideal location for a lazy weekend when the thought of suits, skyscrapers and scandal can take a very definite backseat - let these sorcerers work their magic.